Need mounting plate for top box

[batavicus]

I've got a generic (maybe JC Whitney or Bestem) top box that I'd like to put on my 2007 Burgman 400. I need a mounting plate. Is it possible to have one made? If so, where do I go? To a welder? An RV shop? It seems like it shouldn't be too complicated, say 1/4" aluminum plate with four holes in a trapezoidal pattern to mount to the holes under the tail piece and four holes in a rectangle (about 8" x 6") to screw the box into. The whole thing needs to be about 8 1/2" x 6 1/2" or so.

Any suggestions? Does anyone know of a universal mount that some with few tools outside of a drill and wrenches could adapt to the Burgman?

Thanks.

[Bakeisback]

You should post a picture of the trunk mount you have. Most plates are generic for that company and with slight modification can hold the trunk mount. My father has made a few of his mounts himself. If needed, I think I could come up with one on my own now that I have seen them done. It would not look as nice as some of the others.

[batavicus]

Not sure how to attach an image to a post. I've taken a few pictures but can't figure out the image command. Really, it's an ordinary box, big enough for two full-face helmets with four holes in the bottom so it can be screwed to a rack.

[Bakeisback]

email me the pictures and I will post them for you.

[Chet_Benson]

You can make one out of 1/2" plywood.

As for attaching an image click reply and scroll down to Upload Attachment.

[Chet_Benson]

The plywood works better than metal it takes the shock better and it will not crack. Use lock nuts. The 4 holes to mount to the scooter are fixed while the ones to mount to the box can be where ever.

[batavicus]

Neat idea, Chet_Benson! I didn't know that plywood would take the shock better. Thanks.

[Chet_Benson]

Ride in a good old wood boat sometime and compare it to a metal or fiberglass boat.

[Bakeisback]

Here are the pictures for his top box.

[Daboo]

Take a look at this thread... viewtopic.php?f=6&t=42829&hilit=top+box+plate

I found a Shad Top Master works very well. It's professionally made and doesn't cost a fortune.

Chris

[batavicus]

Very helpful, thanks to all who posted. A Shad rack is on the way. Plywood remains a possibility.

[brandonc_mail]

This is so confusing. Why on earth do we have screw mounts yet still require a luggage rack despite the fact top boxes all come with mounting plates?

Chris I read your linked post above- and that is NOT what Shad has pictured- how do I know what they're going to ship?

And why does every top box require a seperate cost backrest? And why exactly does Suzuki not offer in the USA a reasonable rack/box/rest option yet overseas they do? (question on the reasonable cost part.)

My bike is drilled already- but stores don't carry much inventory around here to view at all and this issue has become frustrating.

[Daboo]

The picture you see in advertisements is generic. What you see in my post, is what you'll get. It fits perfectly.

I first installed my Bestem 2012 without the Shad Top Master. I actually felt pretty good by doing away with the mounting plate on the Burgman side and just using the one that came with the Bestem top box. Within a year, the Bestem mounting plate had cracked. I found out then, that many others have experienced the same thing. The Bestem mounting plate material is hard enough to eat drill bits...but also brittle. The Shad Top Master gives the Bestem Mounting Plate something to bolt onto that keeps it from flexing. With the Bestem (or any other mounting plate like a Givi), you can't see the Shad Top Master.

I think you'll find it is one of the least expensive ways to go when mounting any top box to the Burgman.

Chris

[brandonc_mail]

I appreciate the further explanation- is this compatible with many "generic plate" boxes? I take it- if I need to migrate to a givi- this rack won't be of any help?

[Daboo]

Some bikes come with a designed in mounting area on the back of the bike. This takes the place of that and gives any top box a place to bolt their mounting plate to. For example, it is made by Shad...but works on the Bestem 2012 top box I had at the time...not just Shad top boxes. So, yes, it will work with Givi.

But you still need the part from any top box that attaches to their particular top box in addition to this.

Chris

[brandonc_mail]

That's what I thought- thanks. As for the Unibit- would this work or do you have another to recommend? (looking for Amazon Prime eligible bits)

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-3-Piece-Titanium-Drill-Steel/dp/B001OEPYWK/ref=pd_sim_hi_2

[Chet_Benson]

Yes the step drill works fine. Very easy to cut the plastic.

[batavicus]

Ok, finished with the mounting plate and topbox. Here is the result. I used the Shad rack, which bolted right up to the Burgman and seems very sturdy. The box was cheap--J.C. Whitney? Bestem? Generic Chinese? The very poor quality latch says "X-Lin.""

The first picture (314a) shows the mounting plate. It's a $6.99 cutting board from Tuesday Morning, slightly blemished. It seems very strong. It's bolted on with flathead 5/16", which I countersunk with a larger bit. I drilled the hole to the right just to have a place to hook a bungy cord if I every use the rack without the box. The crack in the tailpiece was courtesy one of the first two owners of the bike. Between the two of them, they crashed it twice and I don't know how many times they dropped it. Every time I work on it I found something else broken or missing. The crack will get some silicon glue.

The second picture (315a) shows the rack from the rear. Where the rack enters the tail piece, you'll see some grommets. I had these lying around. They fit fairly tight around the posts. They might not be necessary or effective, but I'm hoping they keep out the rain. I'll likely smear some silicon glue on them.

If I were to do this again, I'd probably drill the tail piece with a 7/8" paddle bit--very new and very sharp. The instruction call for 22mm, which I don't have. 7/8/ is is 22.2mm. I started small and went bigger per the instruction, yet found that I was off on one hole and had to finish with a step-bit.

The third picture (316a) shows a piece of craft foam 9" x 12" from Michael's (99 cents) that I inserted between the box and the plate to soak up some vibration. Again, perhaps not necessary or effective, but why not?

The fourth picture (317a) shows the rack with the box from the side. To get through the fender washer, lock washer, foam, box, and long strips of metal on the inside of the box (next post), I used 1 1/4" long 5/16" bolts.

I'm still intrigued by the plywood idea. I may make a plywood plate for transferring the box to the luggage rack on my ST1100. I originally bought the box for that bike (hence the wrong color), then decided that the cheap box made the sturdy rack less functional.

Ok, one picture to go--the inside of the box.

[batavicus]

Here's the inside of the box. I used one the metal strips as washers. There are also two other curved strips that I think are intended to receive these strips as a sort quick-on, quick-off arrangement, but they're not very straight and seem flimsy. So I'm using them like this. Again, to get through everything, a 1 1/4" bolt was needed. If I hadn't put in the foam, 1" probably would been enough.

Thanks to the forum for all the suggestions. If anyone thinks I'm headed for disaster with this set-up, please let me know. Maybe in a few months I'll have a report on the suitability of cutting boards as mounting plates.

--batavicus