Oil change with Pics(Long) for AN650

[allwalk]

I wanna thank allwalk for all the work he’s done to putting together easy these to follow steps.

You're very welcome and thank you!

[toa]

IT SHOULD BE DECIDED IF YOU ARE GOING TO CHANGE THE OIL FILTER BEFORE YOU ADD THE OIL TO THE ENGINE AND DO SO IF REQUIRED

With regard to the oil filter I notice the workshop manual (page 2:14) says

"To properly tighten the filter, use the special tool. Never tighten the filter by hand"

On my previous bikes I have always tightened by hand only. Is the Burgman significantly different that it requires a special tool or is hand-tight ok?

[allwalk]

Toa , once you have it hand tight I would use a filter wrench and tighten it another 1/4 turn approx.

[lilleyen]

Dont' know if anyone else has had this problem..but
While changing the transmission oil today, I COULD NOT loosen the filler plug no matter what.

I quit trying before I broke something and just filled it through the over flow hole with a funnel and a plastic tube.

The filler tube seems like a flimsy sort of thing. A ten MM head on a long thin stock.
Wouldn't take much torque to break it off, I'm thinking.

I would prefer to do it the recommended way if possible.
Does anyone know how to loosen this filler plug?
Does just the end come off like a cap, or does it disconnect further in, where the tube gets bigger?

Couldn't tell.

[allwalk]

It disconnects right at the engine casing leaving you with the long plug. Mine have always seemed rather tight to take off. I don't know if it would work but what you could try is to let the engine cool right down and then see if you can get the plug out. Then reinstall it finger tight , warm up the engine and change the oil. When heat is applied to metal it expands, making the tolerance tighter. Cooling down may relieve some of the pressure. It's worth a try.

[HHL650]

This is one great site. I thank all who have contributed; you have relieved a ton of stress and hesitation and helped me enjoy the non-riding part of ownership.
One point: Although the fill and drain plugs on the final drive appear the same from the outside, the drain plug has a magnet on the inside. It does remove/retain a fair amount of metal.

[allwalk]

.
One point: Although the fill and drain plugs on the final drive appear the same from the outside, the drain plug has a magnet on the inside. It does remove/retain a fair amount of metal.

Very good point! Thanks for mentioning it.

[icon57]

many thanks for posting this extremely helpful info!!!
I did my first 600mi fluid changes, and everything went smooth, thanks to the information that was posted in this thread.
it took me 3 hours, as i was being overly cautious, however i think now i can do it all in 40mins....
many thanks again

Lenny

[Homer1959]

Dont' know if anyone else has had this problem..but
While changing the transmission oil today, I COULD NOT loosen the filler plug no matter what.

I quit trying before I broke something and just filled it through the over flow hole with a funnel and a plastic tube.

The filler tube seems like a flimsy sort of thing. A ten MM head on a long thin stock.
Wouldn't take much torque to break it off, I'm thinking.

I would prefer to do it the recommended way if possible.
Does anyone know how to loosen this filler plug?
Does just the end come off like a cap, or does it disconnect further in, where the tube gets bigger?

Couldn't tell.

If you have access to an air impact go ahead, using brute force with a breaker bar will do exactly that, breaking something. To freeze up a plug or a bolts there is nothing like an air impact gun. Remount with anti-seeze.

[kbart]

Allwalk,I'm mechanically limited but am looking to grow and learn.I want to perform the 2nd oils change myself.What torque wrenches do you use?Can I get away w/ a regular wrench?

[Jim]

kbart,

I use standard wrenches with no problem. Just use common sense when tightening and you should be fine.

A Caution note:
Some members have had a problem stripping the socket head, where the allen wrench goes in, on the final drive allen bolts. Make sure the allen wrench in far enough, and very secure. I usually need to tap the wrench with a hammer to loosen it.

[kbart]

Thanx Allwalk,will let you know how I make out.

[kbart]

Another thought on oils change.Since I'll be using a standard wrench,to what degree do I tighten plugs and bolts?

[kbart]

Thanx to the excellent sticky's,I performed my own oil change on Sat.Everything went smoothly.Printed out and followed the directions by Allwalk.Pretty easy to do & saved at least $40 doing it myself.

[don fuzzy]

I don't bother with the filler plug. Just drain the oil and then open up the peep hole. I use a squirt oil can and keep squirting until oil runs out like they tell you in the manual...Replace the plug and all is good. Sorry about the other item, don't know how it got in here..It was supposed to be a new thread........Don Fuzzy

[delehea]

Does anyone know what size and type of tool/socket is needed for the 650 final drive plugs?

Thanks

ed

[SMartin]

I did the 600m fluid change today. All went well. Many thanks to those of you on this thread.
Here's a breakdown of what I used/needed

Instructional materials:
Printout of the oil change PDF (from this thread)
Burgan 650 service manual (RepairManuals.com)

Tools:
3/8" torque wrench (Sears/Craftsman)
8mm socket (final gear cover)
10mm socket (trans oil filler)
14mm socket (trans oil overflow/level...I think)
8mm allen key for 3/8" wrench (Oil drain, trans oil drain, final gear drain, level)
17mm offset wrench (for oil filter tool)
Screwdriver
Pocket screwdriver (used the magnet end to press the centers of the plastic retainers)

From Onieda Suzuki:
Burgan Oil Filter
Suzuki motor oil
Suzuki hypoid gear oil
Oil filter tool (slips over the end of the filter, needs a 17mm wrench)

From Checker Auto:
Transparent graduated funnel with plastic tube
Small tube of anti-sieze

Misc:
Old rain fly from a tent
A piece of old carpet
Shop towels
Plastic oil pan and containers for the used oil

Lots of ice water and breaks...the sun was killer here in Vegas today.

Tomorrow will be the inspections and torque checks for the 1st service. No doubt my set of metric sockets will come in handy here.

Anyway, thanks again. This thread has been a big help to me.

[clocklaw]

The PDF is now being hosted at a new location:

http://www.scootertrap.com/burgman650oilchange.pdf

[wspollack]

First of all, having just done my first fluid (engine, transmission, final drive) change at 3600 miles (I let the dealer do the 600-mile service), I'd like to thank allwalk and clocklaw for their work. Even though I have the shop manual, there's nothing like someone who's actually done this taking the time and effort to write this up from a real-life viewpoint, add color pictures and arrows in diagrams (I took off the tupperware, at least this first time, to see what's going on in the area). I printed out the PDF doc and referred to it as my basic guide. So thanks to both of you (and BUSA, of course).

Speaking of shop manuals, I think a minor correction may be in order vis-a-vis the tranny oil change... or, as always possible, I'm missing or confusing something. The write-ups here say -- step 3, after picture 4.1 -- to "Retighten the drain plug to 12N-m (1.2 kgf-m, 8.5 lb-ft)." My "AN650 Suzuki Service Manual" (which I bought from Oneida Suzukie earlier this year, and which says "K3 K4 K5 K6" on the back cover) says, on page 2-15:

Transmission oil drain plug: 21 N-m (2.1 kgf-m, 15.0 lb-ft)
Transmission oil filler plug: 23 N-m (2.3 kgf-m, 16.5 lb-ft)
Transmission oil level plug: 21 N-m (2.1 kgf-m, 15.0 lb-ft)

This appears to make the "12N-m" value (and its equivalents) incorrect (as well as step 6, on the next page of the PDF document, which says "Replace filler plug and level plug to the same torque," as the filler plug gets a slightly higher torque).

So, am I missing something here, or is there a typo in the write-up?

Oh, one last thing. On a related note, someone who had WAY too much free time did a series of write-ups for Valkyrie (my prior bike) maintenance. For a probable chuckle -- especially if, like me, you've ever been in the military -- check out, for instance, this oil change page:

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/bongooil.htm

In any event, thanks again for the work you folks did.

[Ragman]

Would someone please clarify the following as I my shop manual hasn't arrived yet:

wspollack said:

...... The write-ups here say -- step 3, after picture 4.1 -- to "Retighten the drain plug to 12N-m (1.2 kgf-m, 8.5 lb-ft)." My "AN650 Suzuki Service Manual" (which I bought from Oneida Suzukie earlier this year, and which says "K3 K4 K5 K6" on the back cover) says, on page 2-15:

Transmission oil drain plug: 21 N-m (2.1 kgf-m, 15.0 lb-ft)
Transmission oil filler plug: 23 N-m (2.3 kgf-m, 16.5 lb-ft)
Transmission oil level plug: 21 N-m (2.1 kgf-m, 15.0 lb-ft)

I'm about to go shopping for a torque wrench and I want to make sure I get one with the right lower value.

Thanks

[Cheeky]

Finally found a use for one of my old broken golf clubs. Always new I would if I held on to it long enough.

Cut it off just below the hand grip and then again at 300mm. Using hot water I put on some irrigation hose and shaped it. It held its shape fine after it cooled down, then just pushed a funnel into the end. Presto. Easy fill for the final drive.

[samgrice1]

Today I changed the oil in my 06 650. When I finished filling the engine oil I started the engine for a couple of minutes to fill the filter so that I could check the oil level. I used Quaker State oil which is absolutely clear, but as soon as I started the engine it became dirty looking. I think the transmissin oil mixes with the engine oil and it appears that I contaminated the engine oil when I started it up before draining the transmission oil? Does anyone know if this is true? Also I found that on the 2006 model there appears to be no filler plug for the transmission, only the overflow plug. It would not be difficult to fill it from the overflow plug but the photos show a filler pipe on somebodys bike where none exist on mine. So what do I do? Thanks for your input. Sam

[Buffalo]

The transmission oil does not mix with the engine oil. Although there is always some old oil that does not drain out, maybe you didn't let it drain completely. Did you run the engine to warm the oil before draining it, if not that may be the reason.

The 06 does have the fill plug for the transmission. You may have overlooked it because it is high up and it does not look like a regular plug. It has a long thin stem (about 3 inches) with a bolt head out on the end of the stem. You have to remove the lower side tupperware to see it. Most folks ignore it and fill the transmission through the overflow plug anyway.

[speed]

It's definately easier to fill thru the overflow rather than remove the tupprware to get to the fill spout. Also, multiviscosity oil turns dark rather quickly. It's not dirty it's just the nature of it.

[PassTheGravy]

Can someone please check their factory service manual and verify the torque specs for the transmission drain plug, fill level plug and the filler plug?

Allwalk's instructions say 12 newton meters. But then someone else posted that their manual says:

21Nm for the drain plug
21Nm for the fill level plug
23Nm for the filler plug

I'm in the middle of a fluid change, and need to know (and my service manual hasn't arrived yet). 12Nm seems awfully loose, but Lord knows I don't want to overtorque them and strip something. I tend to be hamfisted anyway.