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by Daboo » Tue Aug 17, 2010 20:44 20
I know you were looking for a recommendation for a different mechanic, but you may wish to show your current mechanic some of the tutorials and videos we have for the procedure. It wasn't nearly as hard and complicated as I thought it would be and I'm not a mechanic.
Chris
Ebenezer - 2011 Honda NT700V Deborah - 2008 Suzuki Burgman 400 (AN400K8) Barak - 2007 Suzuki Burgman 400 (AN400K7) 48,969 miles. (Gone, but not forgotten.)IBA# 49894 True Rounder = 0-20's - Rounder — to — 100's+ Red Hot Rounder John 14:6
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Daboo
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by rweis » Wed Aug 18, 2010 0:00 00
The key is the electric impact gun, then it is simple. Without it, flippen impossible. GREAT videos.
Bob Weis
Bob Weis, Winter Haven (Central), FL, Red 400K8 "Rebekah" "You never see a maxi-scooter parked in front of a Psychiatrist office" ***TRAVEL STOP***Winter Haven, FL
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rweis
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by tarmacburner2 » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:35 06
Your mechanic maybe concerned about damaging the plastic panel that has to come off. Apart from that it is a reasonably straight forward procedure. If you do tackle it yourself then be sure to number the bolts that hold the CVT cover on as they are various lengths. Check out the threads and videos is good advice.
Cheers,
tarmacburner2 Beware, this poster has a wicked sense of humour
An400K7 (in black) 7Jurock / Givi Airflow DPS (18 gram) Givi topbox and panniers Fehling racks Stebel Magnum horn Leo Vince 4Road Exhaust Cree LED spotlights Brain relocated to right hand glovebox.
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tarmacburner2
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by Daboo » Wed Aug 18, 2010 10:27 10
Ino, if you've had the final drive oil replaced, then that's all the body panels that need to come off.
I think in one of the videos, it showed the entire left side body panel coming off. It isn't necessary. Under the mat for the passenger's footrest, there are two screws, two bolts and a body pin to remove. From there, pull that out enough that the tongue of the panel will slip under the metal brace on the body and it holds it out of the way enough to get your hands in. From there, it is simply removing the five bolts that hold the plastic outer CVT on, and the 10 or so bolts under that that hold the inner CVT on. All that has to come off if the final drive fluid is changed at 7500 miles.
From that point, it is one nut holding the variator on. (Just make sure when reassembling it to turn the variator several times to get the belt seated prior to torquing the nut down.
Chris
Ebenezer - 2011 Honda NT700V Deborah - 2008 Suzuki Burgman 400 (AN400K8) Barak - 2007 Suzuki Burgman 400 (AN400K7) 48,969 miles. (Gone, but not forgotten.)IBA# 49894 True Rounder = 0-20's - Rounder — to — 100's+ Red Hot Rounder John 14:6
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Daboo
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by Desert Rat » Wed Aug 18, 2010 11:12 11
You can do it without removing any of the body tuperware. Only plastic that has to come off is the CVT cover. After that it's not a big deal. So have you ever had the oil changed in the final drive ? by the book it's every 7,500 miles. I change mine every 10k. 
Mike 07 400 sold with 46,818 miles 3/23/13 Black 09 650 Exc Bought 3/30/13 7350 miles, grip puppies & Bearcat back rest added. First bike new 1966 blue Honda 175 Scrambler Romans 10:9
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Desert Rat
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by taly » Wed Aug 18, 2010 11:21 11
Ino, I, too, feel mechanically inept. With the generous and patient help and encouragement from Daboo (and Mitch's videos) I was able to do the job. With the electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight ($49) I was able to skip using the variator tool.
You also might want to consider replacing the roller weights with 18gram DrPulley's, while you're at it. I really like the performance change. If you can afford it, you can also replace the OEM with a HiT clutch. I'll be doing that soon. If you do a site search on both of them; you'll see some positive reviews.
I'm not the best to give advice but if you have questions, I still have the pms from Daboo which might be helpful.
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taly
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by Ino » Wed Aug 18, 2010 12:31 12
Guys,
Thanks for the input but I to be perfectly clear, I am a "rider" and the only thing I'll do is change oil and basic pre-ride checking and tightening, beyond that I prefer the techs with the know how and correct tools to dig into the burg.
I may have found the dealership that has serviced and repaired about a dozen burgs over the years and its only about a two hour ride away, I can make a nice day of the ride. I'm just pleasantly surprised the drive belt lasted this long .
Ino 2007 Suzuki Burgman 400 with Velorex 700 Sidecar--Silver 2005 Suzuki Burgman 650 with Velorex 565 Sidecar--Blue (SOLD) 1978 Suzuki Angel Mo-Ped (48cc)--Blue
"4 wheels move my body but 3 wheels move my soul"
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Ino
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by utter chaos » Thu Aug 19, 2010 13:49 13
I am in Mira Loma.
Bring it to me and I will show you how to do it. I have the tools. Time is short but it should take no longer than 30 minutes. If you are changing your drive belt, how is the clutch, clutch bell, and final drive oil?
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utter chaos
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by restlessailor » Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:38 09
Where are the videos for replacing the drive belt on a 400 that are referred to in this string of threads?
Thanks..Tom
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restlessailor
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by TechArtGuy » Tue Feb 15, 2011 15:32 15
There's an article on belt replacement in the 07"+ 400 maintenance section in the BKB that has a link to a video near the top of the article -> http://burgmanusa.com/bkb/400+b+Maintenance
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TechArtGuy
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