Burgman 650 specific.
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by Colchicine » Sat Mar 06, 2010 19:11 19
I'm not aware of anyone on here reporting a leaking final drive seal. Dumb question: Are you sure it isn't excess gear lube from the splines? I would definitely check the oil level by pulling the fill plug, topping it off, riding some more and then pulling it out again and checking the oil level to confirm that it is leaking.
Page 4-4 of the Service Manual describes the oil seal replacement. Unfortunately, they only describe how to do it with the entire final drive case removed and pretty much disassembled. I'm thinking the outer seal (in your picture) could possibly be done without disassembly. The the manual shows 3 total seals, but I think the other two are up at the transmission end.
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by zeco » Sat Mar 06, 2010 19:32 19
It's a definite new leak with a drip every few minutes still after my ride over a few hours ago. I stopped in driveway for a few minutes while opening garage and there's no oil spot where I stopped. Oil in final drive was changed by me about 3000 miles ago and it was right on the money at that time. I can't guess the amount, but the puddle is about 12 inches and still slowly dripping. Seems like it should stop when it get to the bottom of the seal.
The arrow in picture shows where the oil is coming out at the bottom. The splines do not run in oil - they are in the cavity where it is dry.
Looked a parts at Ron Ayers. Sear is about $30., wonder if this seal could be pulled from right side without removing final drive. Have the manual, but information is pretty slim.
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zeco
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by Bergster » Sat Mar 06, 2010 22:36 22
What type and WT of final drive lube are you using? Might look into a different type of lube. This same thing happened to my sons Mean Streak. Changed to a different oil and no more leak...just a thought.
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by zeco » Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:30 10
Bergster,
I have Amsoil Gear Lube 75W-90. I doubt that this leak existed at all till yesterday, not even a tiny seep. Then to a good leak. I don't believe any oil could cause such an abrupt change. I have 3 vehicles beside my Burger and with over 750,000 miles between them none have even developed a leak with Mobil One and Amsoil. Also the puddle is no larger than yesterday. I'm not going to do it, but I bet that the final gear is still well into the oil that it would carry oil all the way back to gear one. I studied the manual last night and had some thoughts about what to look for in the manual. It's too bad the manual isn't more comprehensive. Manual shows pictures of other seals, but not this one. It kind of shows you why so many mechanics have difficulty fixing some things without a ton of labor figuring out how to take it apart. Anyway, I feel the seal was damaged by the spline assembly on the wheel rubbing against it. And the question is, can I pull the seal from the right side or do I have to tear the final drive apart. On Monday, I plan on making a phone call to see if this was the cause. I will order a seal today (about $30) as this may give a hint on which side it needs to be installed from. Also do I need Suzuki's special seal removal tool($48.)? And one more issue, the case gasket. Don't know where to fine a picture of the case gasket with part number.
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zeco
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by Bill-Bill » Sun Mar 07, 2010 15:59 15
zeco,
You had your 09 converted to a TrinityTrike and I am wondering if this is the one that is leaking at the seal. If it is, could it be that the conversion is placing a strain on the seal and causing the leak? Let us know if this is the case.
Bill
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by LeDude » Sun Mar 07, 2010 17:46 17
my guess is that the trike conversion has something to do with it, either putting excessive force on the assembly or throwing it out alignment and causing the housing to shift and damage the seal...
you are, alas, the first to ever report a leak like this one, at least for the past 7 years that I have been following 650 news/threads.
you will probably have to take the drive train apart and replace the seal... but it may be a good idea to talk to a professional suzuki mechanic that you trust in your area, they may know of a quick way to replace the seal without a complete dissassembly.
sorry to hear about your problem, but it could have been worst... your cvt could have bit the dust..
all the best and good luck with the repairs....
ps: don't worry about the tool until you get to the seal, they usually can just be pulle dout with a screw driver... but ask a suzuki mechanic if there is one that you trust.
ps: I couldn't find the part number anywhere, you may have to pay a visit to a suzuki dealership and check with the parts or service guys, they sometimes have more detailed micro fiches than the rest of us mortals.
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by Colchicine » Sun Mar 07, 2010 17:47 17
Bill, I agree with you. The Trinity Trike should be suspect given the lack of leaks with other 650s.
I have a feeling that the Suzuki Special Tool is just a glorified screwdriver. Don't order it until you actually need it.
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by Terry Dill » Sun Mar 07, 2010 21:02 21
The special oil seal removal tool is 09913-50121. Shown on page 4-5. The end doing the work looks like a glorified screwdriver with a bit of a hook on the end.
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by zeco » Tue Mar 09, 2010 17:03 17
I believe that the issue is almost resolved. The drive belt unit indeed was a bit too close to the final drive case. Some rubbing occurred and some metal flakes got between the spline unit and the rubber seal. I've put in a bronze bushing on the drive shaft preventing the contact. I have put it together to confirm fit and took it apart to await the replacement seal. Once it does I believe it should take only minutes to replace. I'm 99.9 % certain I can do everything from the right side of the final drive. As with all my dealings with Richard and Bob at Trinity Trike, they have been very supportive to me. I love that my trike was among the first done, but to be at the beginning, I've discovered things that allowed Trinity to make improvements on all the kits. I would not trade my Burgman 650 or the Trinity Trike for anything. Well, maybe the new Spyder RT, but that's about $25K.
RIDE ON!
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zeco
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by LeDude » Tue Mar 09, 2010 20:03 20
Terry,
glad to hear that you were able to diagnose the source of the problem and correct it, always good to have people that stand behind their products. good luck with the repair, and hope to see you back on the road witha big smile on your face....
all the best...
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by zeco » Fri Mar 12, 2010 17:13 17
Got my oil seal from Ron Ayers. These guys are hard to beat. Only 4 days and the parts are much easier to find than some other on line sources. Okay, now what is Suzuki "super grease"? And what do I have in the garage that's the same thing?
RIDE ON!
Terry from Georgia
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zeco
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by Colchicine » Fri Mar 12, 2010 17:14 17
Just bearing grease.
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by LeDude » Fri Mar 12, 2010 18:57 18
don't use bearing grease, you want to use a high quality moly paste... I have been using Honda's for ages, probably the best... you can also find moly paste at Walmart... haven't really compared its content with Honda's.... use the same grease as you would on the splines... which should be moly... use the best grease you can afford in these high pressure areas... good luck...  buy a tube, it will last you a few years, use a fine brush to apply it ...
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by zeco » Sat Mar 13, 2010 20:09 20
Replaced seal today. With proper tools would probably take 10 minutes. With out proper tools this is how I did it. After some experiments finally took a big flat blade screw driver, heated and bent hook on end. That hooked under seal case with a vice grip on driver shaft, I hit it with a hammer and it finally popped out. The seal was very abraded and was actually cut through making 2 pieces as in the picture. Took quite a bit of compressed air to remove all the crap from seal area. Then tried to use a small piece of hardwood to tap in new seal. Well all that did was make it pop out on the side opposite of where I was taping. Could not find anything to put over the whole circumference of the seal. In all the stuff I've accumulated over the years, nothing. Then made a trip to Lowes and found the white PVC coupler. Took some hits and it finally it seated. Put about 3/4 cup of 75w-90 and finally finished up. Probably 4 hours. I'm too tired now, but plan on a good ride tomorrow.
Again, another learning experience and showing yourself you can do more things than you think, especially with advice and helpful hints from fellow riders. Thanks everybody
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RIDE ON!
Terry from Georgia
Patriot Guard Rider grip puppies GPS Garmin Clear View windshield w/vent mirror Led turn indicators TrinityTrike -8/27/09 13000+ miles on it Isuzu back rest Fehline pass backrest/luggage rack Ikon shocks Racetech front springs & emulators
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by LeDude » Sat Mar 13, 2010 21:28 21
that's good info, thanks for sharing your experience, appreciate it...
hope its all smooth sailing/cruising from here on
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by franklysteve » Mon Nov 12, 2012 16:06 16
I have a 2011 burgman650 with a trinity conversion. with only 8oo miles - I to am experiencing a oil drip after a half hour ride. only 1 2 or 3 drips. when I removed the fill plug a lot of excess oil spilled out. I do not know how suzuki got more oil in than should have been. you only fill until it starts to come out. had the hypoid oil changed last week and the same problem - nothing on a short trip just after a half hour or so of riding.
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by Dave_J » Mon Nov 12, 2012 16:51 16
franklysteve wrote:I have a 2011 burgman650 with a trinity conversion. with only 8oo miles - I to am experiencing a oil drip after a half hour ride. only 1 2 or 3 drips. when I removed the fill plug a lot of excess oil spilled out. I do not know how Suzuki got more oil in than should have been. you only fill until it starts to come out. had the hypoid oil changed last week and the same problem - nothing on a short trip just after a half hour or so of riding.
Welcome to the best Burgman site on the whole WWW. The mechanic that did the assembly may have leaned the bike a bit of maybe gave it a real good squirt and put the plug in. It should never be over full. There is also no easy way for any oil to migrate into the final drive.
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by Bill-Bill » Mon Nov 12, 2012 16:52 16
Change the oil yourself and just put the amount called for in and see if you still have the drip.
Bill
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by franklysteve » Mon Nov 12, 2012 16:54 16
I thought maybe the trinity made the bike sit a little lower and made the oil flow more to the rear/
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by franklysteve » Mon Nov 12, 2012 16:57 16
bill - long time since I talked to you......yes I did have the hypoid changed and same drip problem. maybe the too much oil did something to the seal?
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