2010 Burgman AN 400 L0 - Final Drive Oil Change

[Hunter]

Hi.

I have been reviewing the various tutorials / videos re final drive oil changes.

Whilst cleaning my cooling fan filter and upon close inspection of the underside rear of the drive housing it looks like the drain and fill bolts on the latest model are readily accessible i.e.it would seem that the left hand tupperware / cooling fan cover / filter and the belt case housing need not be removed to access these two bolts but I am not convinced about this.

I do not have a work shop manual and before fiddling with either of these two bolts, that I think are the right ones, I would be pleased to hear from anyone who has changed the final drive oil on a Burgman AN 400 - 2010 L0 model or a 2011 L1 model.

Thanks.

[Quantum Mechanic]

Hi Hunter, the final drive filler bolt is inside the transmission case at/near the rear of the clutch. This is the only bolt you can fill her with. The drain bolt you already have discovered on the outside underneath the transmission at the rear wheel. There are no other bolts that you need to touch. But the cover must come off to get to the final drive filler. It's easy though and should only take about an hour the first time you do it. Have some grease (high melting point) to top up the clutch bearing with just a little grease if needed. But not too much as that would be bad for the clutch if it leaks out everywhere.

[Daboo]

Here's a picture from page 0B-10 of the Service Manual that might help.

It doesn't seem like the smartest way to do things, but learning how to remove the outer and inner CVT cover, opens up everything else to be able to do by extension. You can

• Check the CVT drive belt for wear
• Blow out the variator and clutch to remove the belt dust that accumulates
• Remove the variator to more thoroughly clean it out where the weights move when you get the additional tools.

And if you can do all that, you are no longer dependent on a shop to do your work...which they may, or may not, know what they are doing on your bike.

The first time is the hardest. As you do it more and more, you'll get to the point it'll take you less than an hour to remove and replace everything inside that case.

Chris

[Hunter]

Thank you for your replies which are very helpful and encouraging.

My last couple of scooters were easy to do as drain and fill bolts were external and visible for real easy access

Even my Burgman 650, from memory, was easier to do than the 400.

Since posting my enquiry I have invested in a Haynes workshop manual - The manual states that the inner clutch housing gasket must be replaced (local dealer quoted £32.60 GBP) - An expense I would like to avoid if poss first time around.

Is this really necessary as I would have thought the existing gasket would be good for at least a couple of shots (Provided not damaged of course) - Do those that change their final drive oil change the gasket each time or use existing one a couple of times ??

My final oil is due to be replaced in about 1200 miles and so I will wait until then and see how I get on.

[Daboo]

You are the first person I've seen that has brought up replacing the gasket. I've even read of some people who decided to do away with it entirely. So I definitely wouldn't replace the gasket.

I used to use the blue painters tape to hold the gasket in place while fitting the outer CVT cover back on. I finally did as others have done and just put it on permanently to the outer CVT case with some gasket sealant. Others have used RTV I believe.

Chris

[Muse]

You are the first person I've seen that has brought up replacing the gasket. I've even read of some people who decided to do away with it entirely. So I definitely wouldn't replace the gasket.

I used to use the blue painters tape to hold the gasket in place while fitting the outer CVT cover back on. I finally did as others have done and just put it on permanently to the outer CVT case with some gasket sealant. Others have used RTV I believe.

Chris

I agree with you on this one Daboo. Its main purpose is to eliminate fretting between two metal surfaces.