After seeing Daboo's post here -> viewtopic.php?p=490187#p490187, I decided to search for these lamps to try out as well. I found a pair of lamps from a vendor named 24x7 DIY. They have both an online store here -> http://24x7diy.com/ , and an ebay store -> http://stores.ebay.com/24x7-DIY?_trksid=p4340.l2563, as well as claiming to be the OEM manufacturer of the lamps too.
The model I purchased was the quad led 1800 lumen set in a matte aluminum finish for $144.50 off ebay w/free shipping. It was a bit cheaper on their website but I had already bid on the item by the time of that discovery.
The units use 4 High Power CREE XPG R5 Leds set back in a reflector type housing behind a glass lens and consume 20 watts each assembly. Tech spec on the leds themselves can be found here -> http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXP-G.pdf . The leds are being driven up to the maximum allowable current they can handle according to the spec sheet at a forward voltage a bit over 3.50v @ 1.5 amps within an allowable ambient temp range of 0-87 degrees C (188.6 F).
The leds themselves are thermal epoxied to small MCPCBs similar to many other high output led packages seen around the net, IE Luxeon stars, Cree, Etc .
Then the MCPCBs are thermal epoxied to an aluminum plate. There seems to be a difference between the black and silver models in that the silver, the led boards appear to be epoxied to a bare aluminum plate where the black model has the plate coated. Be it anodized or powder coated has yet to be determined, either way it would interfere with thermal conductivity. By how much depends on the thickness of said coating and by what it's made up of. The plate is machined to a tight tolerance to the inner diameter of the casing stated in correspondence with the vendor/manufacturer and evidenced by my failed attempt at removing the led assembly from the housing to get a closer look. Thermal grease is supposedly applied to the plate's edge to help in thermal conductivity between the two but haven't yet confirmed as to how even it is around the plate.
Photo of led MCPCBs and sinking plate provided by vendor/manufacturer
Further heat dissipation is handled via a screw on heat sink at the rear of the unit and through the casing by contact of the led's sinking plate to the case. There was no thermal medium between the screw on heat sink and main body to allow for proper heat transfer between the two so a little bit of arctic silver thermal compound was added to the threads before reassembly.
Both the eBay auction as well as their store listing for these lamps indicate it has electronic thermal overload protection that reduces power to the leds when temps get high. I bench tested these till a time of 00:04:22 to get an idea as to when the thermal overload would enable. I stopped the test a bit early as the housings were already too hot to touch by that time and didn't want to risk burning out the lamps in case it didn't enable. With correspondence from the manufacturer, the thermal protection is supposed to activate at 65C or 149F when the assembly reaches that limit accomplished via a bi-metallic switch operating off the temperature inside the cavity behind the leds. Though that's 21c or 69.8F below the max allowable temp for the parameters the leds are being driven at it would probably be advisable to turn them off in real slow or stop and go traffic to prolong the life of the leds at 100% input power to the lamps. After mounting, they were field tested for a 19.4 mile run of mixed city and highway riding at an ambient temp of 67F to determine operating temperatures. Upon arriving back home the lamps were only warm to the touch. So as long as air is moving over them they should run fairly cool.
The lamps do not come with any switches or relays when purchased other than the wire pigtails off the lamps themselves. So purchasing and needed wire, connectors and any other control hardware is necessary for installation. Also, the lamps do not come with any mounting hardware other than what's on the lamps themselves so that will need purchasing as well. In this case, mounting was done via a set of 5/8"x1" steel specialty washers and 2" stainless #6 metric bolts from Lowes to mount the lamps to the front fender bolt locations as seen previously in use around BUSA.
So now on to how they perform....
The led lamps operate at a color temperature of 5000k whereas my main HID headlamps operate at around 4300k so they'll look a bit more yellow than the led lamps.
Here are just the main headlamps in low mode. The building is about 112 ft. from where the row of parking space lines begin where the bike was parked.
Main lows with driving lamps enabled
Main Hi's only
Main Hi's plus driving lamps
Just driving lights
Night time From the front (sort of)
Day time (sun behind)
Day time (sun in front)
These lamps are also supposed to be IP65 water resistant according to the description. See for IP rating explanation -> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code There is an O ring on the surfaces where the glass meets it's retaining ring and the retaining ring and body meet as well. The screws in the back of the unit also have o rings as well and the cord appears to be sealed in. The following photos were linked to me by the vendor/manufacturer as a test of water resistance.
Though this IP rating isn't rated for submersion, I did perform this same test using a bucket borrowed from my parents and they are indeed submersible for the ft of water I had in the bucket. The lights, not my parents....
So rain should have no bearing on moisture inundation on these lamps whatsoever.
Conclusion, they are cheaper compared to a good set of HID driving lamps and save on the wattage by 30 watts a set comparatively. And they do a pretty good job at getting more light down the road where you need it and increasing daytime visibility. As for longevity, the leds being used in them have a lifetime of about 25000 hours+ compared to an average HID bulb life of 2000-4000 hrs so in the long run they should easily outlast a set of hids. The only disadvantage is that when they do go the whole lamp needs replacing rather than just the bulb unless soldering in a new set of leds is an option for you. So in the long run they'll probably pay for themselves but that has yet to be determined depending on their service life.
*Important: These led lamps are rather susceptible to transient voltages so if you have HIDs or large relays make sure to turn them on only after the HID ballasts have fired or after the relays are not in operation. Make sure to turn them off before turning the bike off.