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Oil change with Pics(Long) for AN650

90K views 119 replies 70 participants last post by  captainfish 
#1 ·
Ok as previously promised I will try and show how easy it is to change the oil on the 650 with the aid of some pics in my allwalk photo gallery. The oil change pics can be found on page 2 http://burgmanusa.com/gallery/allwalk/album24/
Some of the pics have text added to hopefull aid in the operation. The following pic in the series is the same pic without the text.To enlarge the pic click on the thumbnail and if you need it larger again left click on that picture and it should show an even larger zoomed in pic for better clarity. Ok here goes.

Engine oil change: put bike on center stand and warm engine at idle for 3 minutes

1-For me the oil change starts with the removal of the center hump panel. Fairly easy with one screw to remove. So basic no pic supplied.

2- Now I take of the lower left leg shield or body panel. Refer to pics 1.1 and 1 for the fastners that need to be removed. Now dont forget that there is 1 screw ( not shown in photos) accessible from the front rad area, very noticeable. Pic 2.1 shows the location of the 2 fastners on the underside of the panel. Don't forget these

3- Remove engine oil filler plug (pic 3.1)

4-Place an oil pan below the engine and remove the engine oil drain plug (pic 3.1)

5- After oil is completely drained , replace drain plug and tourque to
oil drain plug:23N-m (2.3 kgf-m, 16.5 lb-ft)

6- Refill engine oil through the filler hole using an API classification of SF or SG oil with SAE 10W-40 viscosity keeping an eye on the oil level sight glass.

Start the engine and allow to run for 3 mins at idling speed.
Turn off the engine and wait about 3 mins,then check the oil level through the inspection window. If the level is below the mark L ,add oil to the F level.If the oil is above the F mark ,drain oil to the F mark level
IT SHOULD BE DECIDED IF YOU ARE GOING TO CHANGE THE OIL FILTER BEFORE YOU ADD THE OIL TO THE ENGINE AND DO SO IF REQUIRED


Engine oil capacity
Oil change: 2.6L (2.7/2.3 US/Imp qt)
Filter change: 2.9L (3.1/2.6 US/Imp qt)
Overhaul engine: 3.4L (3.6/3.0 US/Imp qt)



TRANSMISSION OIL

1- Place the oil pan below the transmission case and remove the oil drain plug(pic 3.1) and the filler plug (pic 4.1)

2-Remove the oil level plug (pic 4.1)

3-Retighten the drain plug to 12N-m (1.2 kgf-m, 8.5 lb-ft)

4-Refill through the filler hole using SAE 10W-40 with API SF or SG oil
5-Fill untill you start to see the oil drain from the oil level plug hole.
6- Replace filler plug and level plug to the same tourque specs as the drain plug.

NECESSARY AMOUNT OF TRANSMISSION OIL

OIL CHANGE: 360ML (12.2/12.7 U.S/IMP OZ)
OVERHAUL : 400ML (13.5/14.1 U.S/IMP OZ)


Hope this helps those at home mechanics and I will try to follow up with a report and pics on the Final Gear Oil change.
 
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#3 ·
As promised I am doing a follow up report on the Final Gear Oil Change along with pics.
Pics are found on page 3 of the allwalk photos in the Gallery



Final Gear Oil Change

Replace initiall at 1000km (600 mile, 1 month) and
every 12,000 km (7500 miles, 12 months) therafter


- Put bike on center stand and let engine run for 3 or so minutes with rear wheel turning.

-remove the final gear case cover (pic finalgear1)http://burgmanusa.com/gallery/allwalk/album24/finalgear1.jpg.html

-place an oil pan below the final gear case

-remove the oil drain plug and the oil level/filler plug http://burgmanusa.com/gallery/allwalk/album24/finalgear2.jpg.html

-tighten the oil drain plug to the specified torque, and pour fresh oil through the oil level/filler hole untill the oil overflows from the oil level hole

Drain Plug: 33N-m (3.3 kgf-m, 24.0 lb-ft)
Oil level plug is the same torque specs

Oil Viscosity and Classification

: Hypoid gear oil SAE #90 API grade GL-5

Necessary amount
Oil change: 300ml (10.1/10.6 US/Imp oz)
Overhaul : 430ml (14.5/15.1 US/Imp oz)
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#4 ·
Oooohhh...more data to 'steal' for the knowledgebase. :twisted:
 
#5 ·
Allwalk, I found it's not necessary to remove the left lower cover to change the transmissiton oil. I fill my trans. with an oil can in the over flow hole until it runs out, I wait a while (about 30 sec.) then give it a few more shots with the oil can to be sure . This really speeds up the time.
 
#6 ·
Jim said:
Allwalk, I found it's not necessary to remove the left lower cover to change the transmissiton oil. I fill my trans. with an oil can in the over flow hole untill it runs out, I wait a while (about 30 sec.) then give it a few more shots with the oil can to be sure . This really speeds up the time.
I've heard of others doing that as well. Its no big deal to me to take off the shield. I want to use the filler hole just in case there are some pockets up high that may hold oil and would otherwise not get it if filled from the level hole. Why would Suzuki other wise give you a filler hole?
The final gear oil is filled in the same manner as you do your tranny oil. I don't know.......I basically typed out verbatum(sp?) what the Suzuki Manual had written.
 
#8 ·
Re: Thanks for doing this.

Jay said:
Thanks for doing this. This will really help everyone. Do you really think that filling this the alternative way could mess the bike up?
No I think if you decide to go the short cut route all will work out. Anyways all you have to do after filling is run the bike on the center stand for 3 mins, let sit for 3 more mins and then just ispect the level hole again to make sure oil is still flowing.

The removal of the leg shield permits me to see better and inspect for loose bolts better.
 
#10 ·
Filling the Transmission

Jim said:
Allwalk, I found it's not necessary to remove the left lower cover to change the transmissiton oil. I fill my trans. with an oil can in the over flow hole untill it runs out, I wait a while (about 30 sec.) then give it a few more shots with the oil can to be sure . This really speeds up the time.
I used a big syringe which holds 2oz. (60cc) of oil and put a rubber tube on the end. I had to fill it six tmes but it went in easy with no mess. This allowed me to use the fill hole.
 
#11 ·
Re: Thanks for the walk-through

jacvinson said:
Whoda' thought that you had to remove body panels to just do basic work?
jac
Not just an issue with the Burmans. Had to remove a body panel to drain the oil on my 1995 Kawasaki Concours sport touring motorcycle too. This is pretty common with motorcycles and scooters that have bodywork - and most of them do these days.
 
#12 ·
When I changed the final gear oil I measured the oil that came out. It was almost 13 oz. You said to put 10.6 oz in. I was not sure if I should replace the same amount that was drained or only do the 10.6 oz.
I put 12 oz. back :roll: am I ok or should I drain some. :oops:
 
#13 ·
final gear oil change

The Suzuki Shop Manual states:
Final Gear Oil Change:
Oil change: 300 ml (10.1 /10.6 US/IMP oz)
OverHaul : 430 ml (14.5 / 15.1 US/Imp oz)
Seems pretty clear in the shop manual. Most measuring cups have both oz, and ml measurements, but you may want to account for the little bit that never comes out of the measuring cup,.... and allow a "bit" extra to make up for it, although it *can't * be that much.
have a good one..
jac
 
#16 ·
Re: final gear oil change

jacvinson said:
The Suzuki Shop Manual states:
Final Gear Oil Change:
Oil change: 300 ml (10.1 /10.6 US/IMP oz)
OverHaul : 430 ml (14.5 / 15.1 US/Imp oz)
Seems pretty clear in the shop manual. Most measuring cups have both oz, and ml measurements, but you may want to account for the little bit that never comes out of the measuring cup,.... and allow a "bit" extra to make up for it, although it *can't * be that much.
have a good one..
jac
Thanks for the replies....guess next time I won't measure what comes out...... :lol: I'm not much of a mechanic and this was the first servicing so I was a little bit over cautious.....I was just thrilled I didn't break anything taking it apart. :shock:
 
#17 ·
The final drive oil level is self set by draining out to level of plug hole

Greg ...
 
#18 ·
refill amounts

I have done 1 oil change and 1 service so far in 1000 klms and both times it has taken just OVER 3 liters to get it to the fill mark. I know what the manual says and what is stamped on the engine but what I think makes up for the difference is the personal draining procedure and time. I always change my fluids hot, let it drain for about 1/2 hour and even lean the bike over to be totally anal. As far as the trans and final drive, it may have taken more also but ya just fill to when it runs out. There is the difference between fill and overhaul amounts and I think it just depends on whose doing the job.
 
#19 ·
Allwalk:

I just performed my 600mi service thanks to you. Without the pics, I would have been guessing as to where the various drain and filler plugs were. Thank you.

I came across this site as a result of a google search and I think its great! Frankly, I thought I was the only one who is as excited about the Burgman as I am. This machine represents the next phase of motorcycle technology.
 
#20 ·
gshepp1 said:
Allwalk:

I just performed my 600mi service thanks to you. Without the pics, I would have been guessing as to where the various drain and filler plugs were. Thank you.

I came across this site as a result of a google search and I think its great! Frankly, I thought I was the only one who is as excited about the Burgman as I am. This machine represents the next phase of motorcycle technology.
Your post brought a smile to my face and made my day :D I just finished doing my 6000 km service along with changing plugs and cleaning the CVT filter. Yes I took more pics and will post them soon........I'm off to bed ( grumbles.......stupid midnight shift.....grumble)

Glad the photos worked out for you.
 
#21 ·
Great info!

Wow! Having this illustrated, step-by-step guide is great! Thanks for all that work for our benefit.

Now, I know exactly how to change the oil(s) in my new Burg:
1) drive to dealer
2) leave scoot with instructions
3) come back the next day
4) pay outrageous service bill
5) ride home smiling

:wink:

Seriously, after the break-in period (of which I will go with the alternate method of "ride it like you stole it"), how about synthetics? I've been using plastic oil in all my high-performance vehicles for years. I still change every 3,000 miles.

Recommendations? Warnings?

Al
 
#22 ·
Re: refill amounts

Penquino said:
I have done 1 oil change and 1 service so far in 1000 klms and both times it has taken just OVER 3 liters to get it to the fill mark.
3 LITRES? :!: That's 3000ml -- over 10 times what Suzuki recommends in the Owner's Manual.

Where is it all going? :?:
 
#25 ·
Re: Oil change with Pics(Long)

allwalk said:
3- Remove engine oil filler plug (pic 3.1)

4-Place an oil pan below the engine and remove the engine oil drain plug (pic 3.1)

5- After oil is completely drained , replace drain plug and tourque to
oil drain plug:23N-m (2.3 kgf-m, 16.5 lb-ft)
In (pic 3.1) there is another oil drain plug. It is very similar to the transmission drain plug...faces the ground, actuated with a hex key.

I loosened said plug by mistake while changing my oil yesterday. Could someone please tell me the proper tourque? Thank you.

About changing the fluids:

If you are going to take to lower panel off, there are two slotted tabs, behind the panel, between the front and rear floorboards. They can be felt and released if you reach your hand up behind the panel.

There is also a little tab at the lower leading edge of the exterior of the panel. This can be seen and is simple to disengage.

As for the black two part fasteners, the instant the center button gives a little click, stop pushing it. If you push the center button past the first quiet click, you've gone too far. You'll have to reach around from the back side and push the button back up or the fastener can not be extracted. This could be a problem.
 
#26 ·
Re: Oil change with Pics(Long)

Wasquid said:
allwalk said:
3- Remove engine oil filler plug (pic 3.1)

4-Place an oil pan below the engine and remove the engine oil drain plug (pic 3.1)

5- After oil is completely drained , replace drain plug and tourque to
oil drain plug:23N-m (2.3 kgf-m, 16.5 lb-ft)
In (pic 3.1) there is another oil drain plug. It is very similar to the transmission drain plug...faces the ground, actuated with a hex key.

I loosened said plug by mistake while changing my oil yesterday. Could someone please tell me the proper tourque? Thank you.

About changing the fluids:

If you are going to take to lower panel off, there are two slotted tabs, behind the panel, between the front and rear floorboards. They can be felt and released if you reach your hand up behind the panel.

There is also a little tab at the lower leading edge of the exterior of the panel. This can be seen and is simple to disengage.

As for the black two part fasteners, the instant the center button gives a little click, stop pushing it. If you push the center button past the first quiet click, you've gone too far. You'll have to reach around from the back side and push the button back up or the fastener can not be extracted. This could be a problem.

I'm uncertain at this time what bolt you are refering to. The torque chart in the manual has several options for bolts not listed. I dont want to advise an incorrect measurement. The transmission drain plug is 8.5 lb-ft
 
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