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video- 07+ 400-Valve Clearance Inspection

5K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  Bolzen 
#1 ·
this is part 1 (remove connectors, air filter box, tube, bolts)

part 2 is inspecting .. part 3 putting everything back together

part 2 and part 3 is coming soon... take me time to edit the videos... it's a lot of work :roll:

Valve Clearance Inspection part 1
[youtube:1n320dlu]1qW47m1sde4[/youtube:1n320dlu]

Valve Clearance Inspection Part 2
[youtube:1n320dlu]4jnYT1xMFpY[/youtube:1n320dlu]

[Edited: If the above imbedded video doesn't work, please try this direct link.]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qW47m1sde4
 
#5 ·
TheDarkCutlass said:
Video is now marked private, can't watch it now all of a sudden :?:
Yep, I went to watch it and it is marked private. :?
 
#6 ·
The link works now, and there's a direct link to it under the imbeded video. (Wouldn't want to lose this, would we?!)

Chris
 
#7 ·
First class video :thumbup: and Mitch makes it look so easy even a caveman can do it. :lol: :lol:
 
#8 ·
Well mitch when i reach the magic number i now know what to do thankyou :toothy7:
 
#9 ·
I have watched the #2 video 3 times, I have gotten to the cam lobe and the tappets and am trying to measure the clearance.

I have set the TDC to the beginning of the notch, the middle of the notch and the bottom of the notch on the right side.

I am trying to measure the intake side (i.e. the closest to the seat). I have a mirror so I can see the feeler gauge, have light on the tappet and cam and can see the cam lobe and the tappet top clearly.

I can not possibly be measuring correctly:
I slide the feeler gauge in from the exhaust side of the intake valve, I see it go under the cam, until it gets to about 3/16" of the wall of the tappet closest to the seat. There it will not go under the cam lobe and get all the way across the tappet top. I think this means I have the crankshaft rotated a couple of degrees to much. However the rotating TDC indicator on the right side the mark is right at the very first part of the notch opening you use for TDC alignment.

I have tried from .008mm all the way to .300mm and can slide most of the feeler gauge under the cam lobe to about the 3/16" from the wall of the tappet bore.

I have tried the middle of the TDC mark and notch, I have tried the lower (to the ground) part of the notch and the mark.

There is something fundamentally wrong with what I am doing or the way I am doing it.

When I pulled the plug the color was a light tan, the electrode was worn some (about 1/2 of the orgional electrode) indicating that the ecm is working the mixture properly and the combustion is happening correctly. I also think that also means the valves can not be far off if any, but I am having a heck of a time getting that measurement to validate it.

I need some ideas. I will leave the scoot apart until I figure out how to do this.

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob Weis
 
#10 ·
I'm trying to remember back about a year and 14,000 miles. I think the mind has a way of blanking out bad memories. :lol: Actually, the valve check and adjustment was great. It was the pulling of the tupperware and the difficulties afterwards when I swapped two sensors. So I'm a little fuzzy on what I'm going to write...and no, I'm not going to pull mine apart to check to make sure what I tell you is correct!

So what I think is happening is you are 180 degrees off on the timing mark. The flywheel (where the timing mark is) turns over twice for each cycle. If I'm right, all you need to do is turn it one more time around and all will be well.

Chris
 
#11 ·
OK, thanks, I'll try that.

I can't imagine that you would not dig into this thing for a couple of days instead of trust your memory, LOL.

I'll let you know how that suggestion turns out.

**** YOUR GOOD!

EXACTELY CORRECT.

I turned the flywheel around again to the timing mark and the sight picture is different. Here is what I see DIFFERENT for the next person doing this:

THE WRONG WAY:
You will turn the TDC to the TDC mark correctly, go to measure the valve clearance and what you will see when the TDC mark is correct but you need to turn the TDC one more time to the NEXT TDC is:

the cam lobe will be approaching the tappet from the top moving toward the bottom to make contact with the tappet. You can not measure it this way.

THE RIGHT WAY:
from the cam lobe contacting the tappet, turn the TDC mark ONE more time around and:

You will see what looks like a small square nut welded to the cam shaft, no cam lobe in sight, and the small square nut will be centered right in the middle of the tappet and you will slide the feeler gauge from the top (seat side) between the nut and the tappet, testing for fit until the next feeler gauge does not fit.

VERY simple.

I had done it the wrong way about 4 times and just unluckly in turning the TDC mark to the wrong place 4 times. Again, the TDC right place is when you look at the cam and tappet you see what looks like a little square nut centered right in the middle of the tappet and the feeler gauge slides very easily under it adn it is very easy to see with a mechanics mirror and the feeler gauge will go all the way from entry to exit and you will have a good sight picture of it.

You may need to stack feeler gauges i.e. .17+.04 stacked together = .21 because there is not a .21 in my feeler gauge stack, but I do have a .17 and a .04 = .21 and the .20 slipped through easily so Ineeded a little bit more thickness, but the .18 + .04 =.22 would not go through.

I CAN NOT SAY ENOUGH THANKS FOR THE HELP, BUT THANKS AGAIN,

Bob Weis

intake .15 left side .13 right side
exhaust .21 left side .20 right side
 
#12 ·
It looks like you stopped the TDC with the sprocket's '1' on top, whereas it should be '3' in accordance with the manual.

Just did mine, after measurements had revealed some tight specs, went for the adjustment, and although didn't find any change in performance or engine sound whatsoever, the thing that bothered me was a very narrow lash interval those valves operate in.

Things happening pretty fast there, so who knows what can occur if a valve misses the boat. Besides, tech guys suggest.

The whole job took a bit more than half a day. Considering that i did the first check earlier, it took a whole day. In a prepared garage it might take what QM assigns for it. But i don't have such a garage.

My advice would be if get to the checking, do the adjustment once your there, because the most difficult part is probably the access, i.e. removing all the stuff and dressing it back.

Got the Hot Cams kit and was a bit disappointed with the 0.05 increments. Having closed the journal, realized that those shims could be sanded with small grain paper to the desired value, but didn't want to open it back again.

Might want to take additional measurements, as you may find the OEM shim sizes a little bit surprising. E.g. mine read 162 but the measured size was 1.64. Assuming device error, the measured replacement shim size was 1.61 vs claimed 1.60.

Do one cam at a time -- it's easier to keep everything in original position this way.

It could be done with floorboard on, but air cleaner element bracket will be more challenge. In principle, it even can be left in situ as air cleaner has a pivoting mount point. I just like more space to move around.

All in all the job is doable for a non-mechanic like me. Whether it's worth doing i can't say for sure, but i'd better never know :wink
 
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