It looks like you stopped the TDC with the sprocket's '1' on top, whereas it should be '3' in accordance with the manual.
Just did mine, after measurements had revealed some tight specs, went for the adjustment, and although didn't find any change in performance or engine sound whatsoever, the thing that bothered me was a very narrow lash interval those valves operate in.
Things happening pretty fast there, so who knows what can occur if a valve misses the boat. Besides, tech guys suggest.
The whole job took a bit more than half a day. Considering that i did the first check earlier, it took a whole day. In a prepared garage it might take what QM assigns for it. But i don't have such a garage.
My advice would be if get to the checking, do the adjustment once your there, because the most difficult part is probably the access, i.e. removing all the stuff and dressing it back.
Got the Hot Cams kit and was a bit disappointed with the 0.05 increments. Having closed the journal, realized that those shims could be sanded with small grain paper to the desired value, but didn't want to open it back again.
Might want to take additional measurements, as you may find the OEM shim sizes a little bit surprising. E.g. mine read 162 but the measured size was 1.64. Assuming device error, the measured replacement shim size was 1.61 vs claimed 1.60.
Do one cam at a time -- it's easier to keep everything in original position this way.
It could be done with floorboard on, but air cleaner element bracket will be more challenge. In principle, it even can be left in situ as air cleaner has a pivoting mount point. I just like more space to move around.
All in all the job is doable for a non-mechanic like me. Whether it's worth doing i can't say for sure, but i'd better never know