Hopefully this will aid,assist, or answer most questions in regards to the 650 Valve tappet inspection
. The first part requires removal of almost all the front body work. I decided to do this as thoroughly as possible and some photos may seem basic or redundant.
1. Start with the removal of the maintenance lid Photo
2. I then went on to the removal of the leg side covers (left and right)Photo
3. Next is the removal of the handle bar covers. Remove the lower portion first Photo
With fastners removed pull bottom section towards you the rider as in this Photo
4. Now remove the 2 fastners that secure the top portion of the handle bar covers and pull up. See Photo
5. Now you are ready to remove the front panel. Remove all fastners depicted in this Photo
and pull towards you as the rider. There are a couple of plastic tabs below the ignition switch that offer some minor resistance.
6. I then took off what Suzuki refers to as the front leg shield cover Photo
. This piece is only held on by 5 tabs as seen in this Photo
. They seem to hold quite securely. What I did was push from the backside while trying to pry up at the corners.
7. Now on to removal of the leg shield or main front fairing that holds the headlights. Remove fastners depicted in this Photo
, both sides.
8. Now is the time to disconnect 4 electrical connections as in this Photo
9. Next I removed what Suzuki calls the lower leg shield but would be better reffered to as the radiator frame/cover. Located in behind the front wheel and held by 2 fastners and 2 bolts Photo
10. Now there are only 4 bolts that still secure the main front fairing. There are 2 located down low in the radiator area adjacent to the last piece you just removed. I failed to capture these 2 bolts on film. Remove these 2 bolts now. Now proceed to the remaining 2 bolts in this Photo
. You can now carefully pull the front main fairing away. I found it easier with the mirrors folded in.
11. The next piece of tupperware to be removed is the front box. Open the main glove box and remove the 2 bolts seen in this Photo
Next you need to remove the emergency brake handle as explained in this Photo
Now the only thing remaining is to remove the wiring plugs from the accessory outlet in the glove box. You can use this Photo
as a refrence for wire postioning when it comes time to reassemble. The front box is now ready to come away. This required some fidgeting to get the tabs out at the floor board area and around the maintenance lid area.
12. Your machine should now look like this
Well except I have also removed the windscreen.
13. With all the front body panels off it is now time to drain the radiator of coolant and remove it from the bike. First remove the rad cap and then the small drain plug at the front bottom as in this pic
. Now remove all upper and lower rad hoses as depicted in previous pic. Now disconnect the electrical fan connector as illustrated in the previous pic. Finally remove the 3 bolts and the rad is ready to be removed from the machine.
14. Now you have your first full view of the valve cover. First remove both spark plug caps and then the plugs themselves. Nest disconnect the electrical connector to the right of the cover as seen here
. Now remove the 2 hoses at the top of the cover as illustrated in the pic. Remove the 4 screws and you are almost ready to pull the cover off. View this picture
first before you start to pull off the cover. Once you've viewed the photo and read the text on it , proceed with removal of your valve cover.
15. Well congratulations if what you are staring at resembles this picture
you are now staring at the valves.....sort of. The bank of 4 on the top are the intake and that means the 4 on the bottom are exhaust. There clearly marked in the photo as IN and EX
16. So you ask now what? Well now we have to get to the crank shaft so that we can move the valve train into its proper postion for checking. Where is this adjustment? Look here
Suzuki wants us to remove this footboard but that requires removing the side panels trunk . I found if you remove the 2 bolts in the picture and the other 2 bolts on the rear footboards you have enough room to get at the crank adjustment port as seen in this picture
.Now remove that black cover bolt to reveal the hiding spot for the crank adjustment bolt.
17. Now in a clockwise motion you need to turn the crank and line up the engraved groove with the notch on the frame in the 2 o'clock position as in this picture
You will notice that mine is off just a touch but that was in order to take the next photo and clearly show the marks you are looking for on the cam gears.
18. Now look at your cam gears and you are looking for the timing marks to line up as in this picture
If you look at the picture I have the timing marks highlighted in white. If you need a closer look just click on the picture again and you will get a zoomed in shot.Take note that the gear on the left has an A
pointing up or in the regular readable position on the center hub. If you look to the right gear you will see that there is a highlighted #1 just above the engine casing. The lines on the center hub want to be paralled with an imaginary line shown in red
If this is what you see on your machine you are ready to check the valves on cylinder #2 ( the right cylinder as if you are sitting on the machine as the rider. If this is not what you see and your A
is inverted , then you need to move the crankshaft a full 360 degrees and realign the timing marks.
19. Now you are ready to measure your tolerances. Don't forget there are 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves. You do one cylinder and then we will move on to the #1 cylinder. Here is a pic of me checking the clearances on the #1cylinder intake valves. picture
Tappet Clearance (when cold)
Standard: IN : 0.10-0.20 mm (.004"-.008"]
EX : 0.20-0.30 mm (.008"-.012"]
20. Now that you have checked the #2 cylinder valves we can go onto the other cylinder.
Go back and turn the crank a full 360 degrees so that the timing marks match the ones in this Photo
I did not highlight the timing marks in this picture. Take note , Now the A is inverted on the center hub on the left side gear. Also note on the left side gear the #2 is now visible just above the engine casing. Remeber that a #1 on the right gear means you check the valves on the 2nd cylinder. #2 on the left gear means you check the tolerances on the 1st cylinder
as in this pic
Well folks that is it for the inspection stage. My tolerances were all just fine so I do not need to make any adjustments to the shims.
Cylinder #2 : IN .007 & .007, EX .009 & .010, Cylinder #1 IN .007 & .006 ,EX .011 & .010
As you can see at 20,000 kms my valves are near the upper end of the allowable tolerances as indicated by Suzuki. Unfortunately this means I will not be going through the procedure at this time on removing the camshaft and replacing the shims. I'm quite happy with my findings and see no problems in riding this machine untill next winter when I will perform this task once again. Now it's time to reassemlbe my lardy steed in the reverse order of above instructions. I will install new coolant in the machine and not coolant that I drained out.
One other thing worth mentioning are the spark plugs condition when I removed them. They were in excellent shape with the same .028" gap in them that they had when I put them in at the 6000 km check. I cleaned off what tiny carbon deposits there were and will reinstall them for another 6000 kms or so.
If you tackle this project and need any assistance don't hesitate to e-mail or PM me and I will try to answer your questions.
The torque numbers for reinstalling the valve covers are:
first tighten all 4 to 10 N-m (7.0 ft lbs)
then reset and tighten all 4 to : 14 N-m (10.0 ft lbs)
Hope this helps you all