AN650-Valve Tappet Inspection with Pictures - Page 3 - Suzuki Burgman Forum
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post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 09:46 PM
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Re: AN650-Valve Tappet Inspection with Pictures

I haven't seen it documented on here. I haven't had to adjust mine but I did do the valves on a Honda that also had bucket and shim type valves. You do have to remove the cams to get to the buckets that hold the shims. You remove the bucket and change out the shims to thicker or thinner ones as needed to close or open the gap to the correct spec. Not a diffcult thing to do but you do have to pay attention to make sure you get the cams positioned back correctly.

--- Craig AKA Cliffhanger----
"Big Red" 2007 Red Executive - 134,929 miles
"Little Blue" 2006 Blue 400S - 47,595 miles
"STING" 05 B650 gone but not forgotten, RIP

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post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 04:05 AM
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Re: AN650-Valve Tappet Inspection with Pictures

I'm about half way through my own valve job and will be getting new shims for three out of four of my exhaust valves. Though not out of spec yet they are at the extreme end so would rather just do them now and have things balanced again for awhile.Going to plan on setting them mid range as all the others are there.

Ended up using the deep well socket/Flathead screwdriver/quick clamp method on the tensioner as shown here-> viewtopic.php?p=522132#p522132.You can also get the "special tool" 09918-53810 or find a small enough piece of wire to hold the lock in place but din't have either on hand . How to do it is a pain but it does work. Take a flat head screwdriver and push on the top of the small silver block above the spring. It will rock backward releasing the adjuster pin then using the deepwell socket push the spring up. Now for the tricky part. While holding up the spring with the deepwell use the quick clamp to secure the the socket in place so the spring doesn't move. You have to make sure it remains compressed during all this or the adjuster will just move down and re-tension the cam chain again.

Now, before taking the camshaft journal holders off place an oil pan underneath otherwise you'll have oil all over the floor from whats left in them. Be sure to wipe of an area on the cam gears and chain and mark them with a sharpie or something to make sure the alignment is absolutly perfect when replacing them. if they're off by even a cog then the timing will be off and engine damage is very likely.

Once I had the camshafts out I used some bar magnets I had lying to remove the buckets as my fat fingers couldn't grasp em.

In the #2 cylinder, the one exhaust valve had a 175 shim on it and the two exhaust valves on #1 had 178s. So I'm putting a 170 on #2 and two 173s on #1.

Here were my measurements

My clearance specs at 24738 mi left to right

#2 Cylinder IN 1 .006 IN 2 .006 EX1 .008 EX2 .010

#1 Cylinder IN 1 .006 IN 2 .006 EX1 .008 EX2 .008
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post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 06:24 PM
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Re: AN650-Valve Tappet Inspection with Pictures

Well, I went down to the dealer to get replacement shims and they didn't have the two I needed for the #1 cylinder. Suzuki only has shims in increments of .05 mm so making fine adjustments isn't possible with those. The shim diameter our bike take is a 7.48 mm as verified by a set of calipers. Spending the better part of today scouring the internet I had found a few references for using Honda shims on some Suzuki atvs and dirt bikes so I looked a little further and found that a Honda CRF250R takes the same size shims only Honda's is available in .025 mm increments. So I put in an order for two 1.725 mm shims to get it as close to what I needed. Here's a link to the parts fishe for available shim sizes -> http://www.ashlandcycle.com/fiche_secti ... fveh=39350

So, once I get those in I'll mix up a batch of moly grease to put in the cam journals and re lubricate anything that's dry before reassembly. Torque values for reassembly as follows:

Cam Journal Holder bolts: 7.4lb/ft


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post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 11:10 AM
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Re: AN650-Valve Tappet Inspection with Pictures

I decided to tear into my (new to me) 2006 AN650 this last weekend. It has a little over 17,000 mi and the previous owner had no records of the tappet clearance check being done. Upon checking, I found the intake valve clearances to be all mid-range, however the exhaust clearances are on the low side (at .00. Question is: Do the clearances tend to open up as miles are added or close up? Will my .008 become smaller or larger over time?
I was happy to find I am within tolerance (just barely) and would like to get my scoot back together rather than order and wait for shims.
Thanks for you insight and comments.
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post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 11:54 AM
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Re: AN650-Valve Tappet Inspection with Pictures

From my understanding the seats wear over time causing the clearance to tighten up. The only situations I could think of that would cause it to open on these engines would be the valve not closing fully, abnormal wear on the follower, or the cam lobes wearing down. Though as you may have read I was faced with a similar scenario and decided just to move the three exhaust that were on the end of the range to the middle to match the rest.


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post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 02:38 PM
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Re: AN650-Valve Tappet Inspection with Pictures

Thanks TechArtGuy.
If I want to change shims - how much more difficult is it from this point? I only need to remove the Exhaust cam. Would that require the special tool - Chain tensioner lock tool? After I remove the camshaft journal holder (for the exhaust side) can I simply slip the cam/gear assy out? Will there be problems with the timing chain upon re-installation with taking out only the exhaust side? I have CD service manual but it is rather sketchy as to instructions.
Thanks for your help.
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post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 03:26 PM
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Re: AN650-Valve Tappet Inspection with Pictures

You will have to release the tension on the cam chain tensioner to be able to remove and reinstall the cams.

--- Craig AKA Cliffhanger----
"Big Red" 2007 Red Executive - 134,929 miles
"Little Blue" 2006 Blue 400S - 47,595 miles
"STING" 05 B650 gone but not forgotten, RIP

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post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 03:37 PM
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Re: AN650-Valve Tappet Inspection with Pictures

Getting the cams out and back in once you get slack in the chain is not problem. Just be sure you have the pistons at TDC with the cam alignment marks oriented correctly before you take them out. It's not a difficult job you just have to pay attention to the details for alignment. You remove the cam journal holder and lift the cam out angling it slightly to get the sprocket out of the chain. You don't have to take both cams out, you can just remove the exhaust if that is the only one that needs adjustment. Again look carefully at the alignment marks on the end of the cam before you remove it and put it back exactly the same way.

--- Craig AKA Cliffhanger----
"Big Red" 2007 Red Executive - 134,929 miles
"Little Blue" 2006 Blue 400S - 47,595 miles
"STING" 05 B650 gone but not forgotten, RIP

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post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 04:14 PM
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Re: AN650-Valve Tappet Inspection with Pictures

Thanks for the instructions - I think I understand but have a couple of more questions.
Buffalo - you mentioned about releasing the tension on the cam chain tensioner. Where is that and how is it done?
I planned to simply lift up the end of the cam opposite the gear to remove the shims - hopefully not even disengaging the teeth from the chain. Is this possible? Also, is it easiest to remove the shims using a magnet? Lastly, in my case I need to remove .002 of thickness from a couple of the shims. If I use a surface grinder to do that would that work (as opposed to replacing with thinner shims)?
I really appreciate the help. I hate to put this back together when I am this close to bringing everything back to nominal.
Thanks again
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post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 05:18 PM
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Re: AN650-Valve Tappet Inspection with Pictures

The tensioner is on the left side looking at the head from the front of the bike. It has a spring on the bottom of it to the left of the cam sprockets. Releasing the tensioner can be done in two ways, suzuki has a "special tool" for locking the pin which is nothing more than a piece of wire the right size. A drill bit or anything else sufficiently size will work. The other method is using a deep well socket to hold the pin up and spring up and a quickclamp to hold the socket in place. To get release the pin you'll see a small block above the spring on the tensioner. Push the block on it's lower edge to release the spring/pin then push up on the the spring/pin. At this point you can either use the deep well to hold it up or said drill bit/wire to lock it in.


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