I'm about half way through my own valve job and will be getting new shims for three out of four of my exhaust valves. Though not out of spec yet they are at the extreme end so would rather just do them now and have things balanced again for awhile.Going to plan on setting them mid range as all the others are there.
Ended up using the deep well socket/Flathead screwdriver/quick clamp method on the tensioner as shown here-> viewtopic.php?p=522132#p522132.You
can also get the "special tool" 09918-53810 or find a small enough piece of wire to hold the lock in place but din't have either on hand
. How to do it is a pain but it does work. Take a flat head screwdriver and push on the top of the small silver block above the spring. It will rock backward releasing the adjuster pin then using the deepwell socket push the spring up. Now for the tricky part. While holding up the spring with the deepwell use the quick clamp to secure the the socket in place so the spring doesn't move. You have to make sure it remains compressed during all this or the adjuster will just move down and re-tension the cam chain again.
Now, before taking the camshaft journal holders off place an oil pan underneath otherwise you'll have oil all over the floor from whats left in them. Be sure to wipe of an area on the cam gears and chain and mark them with a sharpie or something to make sure the alignment is absolutly perfect when replacing them. if they're off by even a cog then the timing will be off and engine damage is very likely.
Once I had the camshafts out I used some bar magnets I had lying to remove the buckets as my fat fingers couldn't grasp em.
In the #2 cylinder, the one exhaust valve had a 175 shim on it and the two exhaust valves on #1 had 178s. So I'm putting a 170 on #2 and two 173s on #1.
Here were my measurements
My clearance specs at 24738 mi left to right
#2 Cylinder IN 1 .006” IN 2 .006” EX1 .008” EX2 .010”
#1 Cylinder IN 1 .006” IN 2 .006” EX1 .008” EX2 .008”