Powerlet Sockets Installed on My 650 - Suzuki Burgman Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Powerlet Sockets Installed on My 650



I recently completed the addition of two Powerlet outlets on my 650. These are similar to cigarette lighter sockets, except that they're smaller and more robust internally. They're designed to accept other Powerlet-sized plugs, of course, and they're becoming the standard these days for heated clothing and other electrical accessories. These are the same size outlets that are found on most BMW bikes, increasingly other bikes, and I believe they've been around on John Deere tractors for a while, too.

The picture above and four additional pictures are on a page of my web site (rather than glomming up the BUSA board); see:

http://www.billanddot.com/burgman-powerlet/


What you need:

- A Powerlet socket
- Some 1/4" heat-shrink tubing
- Some 3/4" heat-shrink tubing
- Some female spade lugs
- Appropriate wire, with an in-line fuse and ring connectors
- A little and a big drill bit, and an adjustable wrench


Instructions (keeping in mind that the left and right sides of a bike are based on your sitting on it, e.g., the left side has the sidestand):

1) Buy a Powerlet outlet or two. I used the "STANDARD POWERLET SOCKET - PSO-001" ( http://www.powerletproducts.com/product ... ockets.php ).

2) Remove the battery cover (pull out the pin, and slide the flanges backwards) and disconnect the battery, and pull the battery out. You should first disconnect the grounded side of a battery, which in this case is the negative terminal, on the right side, and then disconnect the hot (positive, left) side.

This is made easier if you first disconnect the seat prop rod, by pulling out the cotter pin and washer; you can then bungee the seat to the handlebars, for instance, to raise it out the way more. (Alternatively, you can take the seat entirely off, but -- speaking from experience here -- putting it back on is not a lot of fun, whichever of the two possible ways you've removed it.)

3) Remove what the manual calls the "trunk box cover," i.e., the piece of plastic that incorporates the tray that the battery sits in. This is held in place by, on each side, a bolt near the front and a screw a little farther back.

Note that the trunk box cover has, for the screws on the side, two slide-over-the-plastic metal clips. Be careful (when removing the cover) that these don't rub against the other pieces there and then fall down into a black hole. The cover also has a sort of flange at the very back; this positions the back end of this plastic properly, and will come free if you wiggle the cover around.

Further note that it isn't necessary to completely set this piece aside. You just want to be able to move the cover out of the way a bit when working, and this also allows you to flex the panel beneath a bit. There are some connectors on top of this piece, by the way, near the front left, that you can just slide off; this makes manuevering it much easier.

4) Drill a pilot hole for the big bit. In my case, this point (which will become the center of a larger hole) is about 2 1/2" down from the top of the plastic side cover (which is actually part of the floorboard piece; see the pictures). There's a triangle of frame members in this area, and what I was aiming for is the open center of this area (which has a depth here, from the top of the plastic, of about 3 1/2" - 3 3/4"). You will be able to pull the plastic outwards a bit; shine a light in there and look around.

5) Enlarge the pilot hole to 3/4", drilling perpendicular to the plastic. I used a 3/4" Irwin Speedbor ( http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jht ... Prod100185 ) I already had with great success! These bits have sharp points on the outside edge of the bit, which is not the case with all similar bits. Use a medium speed and moderate pressure; when this cuts through -- and the plastic is surprisingly thick here -- you don't want to push the bit past the hole, because there are also some wires in this area (on both sides)!

6) Prepare a couple of wires. Each wire should be a couple of feet long, at least 14 gauge, and should have a ring connector on the battery end; additionally, the hot side should have an in-line fuse.

In my case, for the right side I used a zip-cord pair of wires that came with my Battery Tender Jr., which meets these requirements (including an in-line 3-amp fuse). The other (i.e., non-battery) ends terminated in an SAE plug, which I cut off. (Note: I also cut off the end of the long wire pair that comes out of the Battery Tender Jr. itself, and replaced it with a Powerlet plug, the "DELUXE POWERLET PLUG - PPL-002," making sure that the hot-side output of that device was connected to the center tip of the Powerlet plug. Now, connecting my Battery Tender Jr. is simply a matter of pushing the plug into the socket.)

For the left side Powerlet socket connection, I used a similar pair of wires that came with my heated jacket (including an in-line 15-amp fuse for the hot side). The non-battery end of this pair also originally terminated in an SAE connector, which I cut off. (I replaced this wiring, in terms of actually hooking up my Tourmaster jacket, with an "Accessory Plug" from Gerbing; see http://www.gerbing.com/acc/accprod.html .)

For the Powerlet side of these wires, crimp on some garden variety automotive female spade lugs (and probably the "blue" medium-wire-size ones will work best here); feel free to solder these connections if you don't have a proper ratcheting crimp tool. I then put some 1/4" shrink tubing over the lugs, from the very end of the lugs (where they slide onto the male lugs of the Powerlet) to a point past the crimping, and applied heat.

7) Don't connect the wires to the battery yet, but position them. The middle of the wires should be routed up through the trunk box cover -- there are some cut-outs for this -- so that the ring-connector ends are close to where the battery terminals will be. Remember, the hot side connector (probably red, if you're using some wires you got from another device) goes to the positive battery terminal, which is on the left side of the 650.

The spade-lug ends should come through the hole you made, sticking outside of it, but before you push them through the hole: slide about a 2" piece of 3/4" heat-shrink tubing over them; slide the big nut (no, not you, the one that came with the Powerlet socket) over the wires (flat side of the nut out); and slide the Powerlet big washer on. Now, get the spade lugs outside of the hole.

8) Connect the spade lugs to the socket. The hot side wire -- the one with the in-line fuse, and to be connected to the positive battery terminal -- must be connected to the hot side of the Powerlet, which is the center of the socket; there's a little diagram that comes with the socket, if you need help in this area.

9) Push the socket into the hole, slide the washer over it, and tighten the nut; I don't have an open-end wrench that large, so I used an adjustable one (which is not that big of a deal, as you're not making a structural connection here, i.e., snug is okay). Of course, it helps here if you have small hands or a reasonable tolerance for pain, while you're trying to do this and push the plastic out of the way a bit, without breaking it.

Next, slide the 3/4" heat shrink up the line, so that it covers the remaining threads, along with the spade-lug connections; the tubing just fits over the threads, and applying heat (gingerly, in order not to melt the plastic around it) will keep that in place. (This part isn't essential, of course, given that the spade lugs already have been shrink-tubed, but I felt better doing it.)

10) Put the trunk box cover back in place (and slide those connectors back onto it, if you took that part off). Note that it goes over every other piece of plastic; see the fourth picture.

11) Put the battery back in, and connect the hot side (positive, left side), with your new ring connector (the one with the in-line fuse) now added on top of the existing red battery connector.

Incidentally, if you've never messed with the battery terminals, it helps if you take a teeny-tiny flat screwdriver blade and slide it underneath the nut that's captive in the terminal, and raise the nut higher. Otherwise, it's very difficult to get the terminal bolt to catch on the nut. Oh, and the bolt takes a number 3, i.e., big, Phillips screwdriver.

Next, connect the negative (ground, right, non-fused) side with the original black-wire connector and your new ring connector over it, slide the battery cover into place, and you're good to go.

By the way, if you look at the last picture on my web page ( http://www.billanddot.com/burgman-powerlet/ ) you'll notice a large jumble of wires where the toolkit once resided. I carry my own tools anyway, and nowhere near all of those wires are part of this project. They include some wires that go to the front of the bike, along with SpeedoHealer wires, and some other stuff. Your installation shouldn't look that cluttered.

Regards,

Bill P.

2008 Exec:

Givi E52; AdMore lights; CustomLED flasher; Clearview; SpeedoHealer; Motolights; Running-lights mod; Powerlet socket; MCL RAM covers; G2 Throttle Tamer

2007 Exec [Sold in '12]:

Givi E52; Clearview; MC Cruise; SpeedoHealer; Motolights; Stebel air horn; Running-lights mod; Oznium LEDs; Powerlet sockets; MCL RAM cover; SW-Motech riser; Manic Salamander bar ends; Yoshimura exhaust; G2 Throttle Tamer

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-01-2007, 01:36 AM
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 08:31 AM
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More expensive but even better and easier plus you get RAM mount for GPS:

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/p...with-ram-mount
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 11:34 AM
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Would install on Type 'S' Burgie versions only, i.e. without handlebar cover.

Burgman 650 '04 Exec black (too much a scoot)
Last true 400.
Suzuki DL1000. (gone but still most miles)
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 03:40 PM
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Very handy, I suspect I'll have a couple on my bike at some point too.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roscowgo View Post
Very handy, I suspect I'll have a couple on my bike at some point too.
Thank you for your comment.

In re-reading that initial post nine years later, I noticed that I didn't really mention my rationale for choosing that spot: I thought then, and I still think, that a spot underneath the rider's left thigh is the best place for getting power for heated gear.

The power entry point for heated vests and heated liners is invariably on the left side, at the bottom of the liner or vest (or where the power for heated socks would come out, too, for that matter). I've ridden, under temporary circumstances, with power for heated gear coming from other places, and IMHO other areas are not optimal.

If you have a power lead coming from a dash area, for instance, the cord might drape over a handlebar. If that's the case, it will interfere with steering, or handlebar movement may dislodge its connection. If power comes from low, up front, it may interfere with leg movement, or get mushed against a tank in a conventional bike, or leg movement may dislodge the connection.

OTOH, if the power cord is draped over the left thigh, and then plugged into the bike or scoot, these problems are avoided.

I made the same type of modification to my 2012 Victory Cross Country Tour motorcycle, shortly after I purchased that. That mod involved similarly putting a Powerlet socket through tupperware, under my left thigh. Again, the socket served as an entry point for a smart charger, but more importantly -- in terms of choosing that spot -- as the point for connecting heated gear.

I also continue to use a coiled cord -- the kind that came with telephone handsets, if you're old enough to remember them -- with a coax socket on the heated-gear end and a male Powerlet plug on the other end.

I made a sub-gallery of this mod for the Victory community, here:

http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xc...in-side-cover/

While the vast majority of those pictures are irrelevant to the Burgman community, if anyone's interested, the first few and the last few pictures and captions in that gallery give detailed information and pics regarding the coil cord, and show that I continue to favor Powerlet products, especially in that location.

Regards,

Bill P.

2008 Exec:

Givi E52; AdMore lights; CustomLED flasher; Clearview; SpeedoHealer; Motolights; Running-lights mod; Powerlet socket; MCL RAM covers; G2 Throttle Tamer

2007 Exec [Sold in '12]:

Givi E52; Clearview; MC Cruise; SpeedoHealer; Motolights; Stebel air horn; Running-lights mod; Oznium LEDs; Powerlet sockets; MCL RAM cover; SW-Motech riser; Manic Salamander bar ends; Yoshimura exhaust; G2 Throttle Tamer

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