Fork Oil Replacement Step by Step AN650 - Suzuki Burgman Forum
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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-17-2004, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Fork Oil Replacement Step by Step AN650

Ok in this post I will attempt to go through the procedures for changing the front fork oil.
The first problem (only problem really) I encountered was how to lift the bike to do the service work. There have been other threads asking if you could use a standard bike jack with the burgman and the answer is yes. It's ackward but can be done.

1) Raising the bike

The burgmans low engine funny frame make using the bike jack ackward. First using wooden blocks under the engine area. This was not secure enough for me so I raised the machine to a point where I could set the back wheel down on a cinder block and the front on another stack of wood
see photo forkoil 1
I then repositioned the bike jack under the extended center stand and supported the front of the bike frame with my car jack, see photo forkoil2 fork oil 2
2) Remove handle bar covers

I just realized i didnt take photos of this process and will do so in the next day or 2 when it stops raining and edit this section. Sorry to all

3) Removal of Front Panel

Very easily done by removing 8 screws and pulling the front panel forward towards the rider seating position see photo forkoil5 for screw location fork oil 5and see photo forkoil6 before pulling off the front panel fork oil 6 4) Remove the brake Calipers
This task is straight forward as there are only 2 bolts on either side to undo and one bolt higher for the brake line, see photo fork oil 7
5) Remove the front wheel

Undo the front axle locking bolt located bottom center of the left fork (right hand as you look from the front) I supported the wheel using wooden blocks before I took out the axle picUsing a 12 mm hex key remove the axle making sure you dont lose the spacer on the left side as you look at the forks. Pull wheel out and set aside.

6) Remove the front fender
Very basic and straght forward as there are only 4 bolts total.
pic forkoil9 shows all front end components removed . Wheel & fender removed

7) Fork removal

Doing one side completly at a time and reinstalling the finished fork.
First undo the top clamping bolt on the fork you are going to service. Next using the 17mm hex key just loosen the fork cap. Don't remove cap at this time. Next from the front of the bike undo the bottom 2 bolts on the lower clamp and the fork will easily slide out. Picutre

Now once the fork is out you can completly take of the cap. NOTE! the cap is under spring pressure so as you see the o-ring I put downward pressure on the cap so as not to be caught by surprise as you clear the threads. The cap will raise about 1/2"to 5/8"

Pullout the top spacer tube and pour out the old oil. As your pouring be prepared to catch the small washer that fits between the spacer and the spring fork componentsNow remove spring.

While holding the fork upside down , work the shock in the dampening motion to get out all the oil.
Now refill the fork with 482ml of the shock oil weight of choice. Work the shock in the dampening motion to get rid of all the air bubbles. Re insert the spring paying attention that the smaller or tighter wound spring section remains at the top. Reinsert washer and then spacer tube. Apply oil to the o-ring on the cap and tighten down the cap.

Re-install this fork and go on to the next. Just go through the instructions in reverse order untill the bike looks like a bike again.

This job is really not that difficult. Like I said at the top of the thread the hardest part was figuring out how to support the bike so I could do the maintenance.

Hope this helps again and feel free to ask any questions.

Allan - Only bikers know why dogs hang there heads out the window!
AN650K3 Flaming Silver see for yourself in my photo gallery

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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-17-2004, 04:08 PM
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Thanks Allwalk,

As I noted in the comment section of the photos, This does answer the question about progressive wound springs in the front forks.

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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-17-2004, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim
Thanks Allwalk,

As I noted in the comment section of the photos, This does answer the question about progrevvive wound springs in the front forks.
Jim,

What was the question? The picture in the service manual does clearly show a progressively wound spring (if that was it).

Paul

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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-17-2004, 08:43 PM
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About a week ago on this forum reading about Koni shocks, the question came up wondering if the front fork springs were progressively wound. I was just commenting on that. Sorry for any confusion.

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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-19-2004, 12:18 AM
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Great job, Allwalk.

Looks like you were working in a university parking lot. At any rate, appears to be in a distinctly urban environment.

I'm anxious to see how you got the handle bar covers off, and whether you decided to just leave them off.

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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 07:14 PM
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fork oil replacement

ok now we know how to remove the front shocks. what oil can be returned to the shocks? i read in this forum that the oil was 15 wt. oil what oil can be used instead of the 15 wt oil? i want the lightest oil i can get for the front shocks but also need oil that will work and not damage the shocks! my oil looked to me to be transmission type oil. and it was dirty only have 1200 miles on the bike.

i find the fron shocks to be to stiff for my pleasure and by replacing the oil with a lighter type of oil will make the ride a bit smoother? or am i thinking wrong?

i also removed one inch from the spacer tube to lower the bike just a bit. if this fails to help improve the ride i may go to a softer spring.

the back shocks have been lowered also by one inch. thanks bp.
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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Hi corvairbob.

The 650 comes shipped with 10 wt oil in the front. I was experiencing the front end bottoming out. Thats why I went to a thicker oil. It increases the dampening and made my ride smoother. I found the stock oil was great for speeds under lets say 50 mph. Over that and the front end couldnt absorb the bumps fast enough. If you go to a lighter oil I would guess that the bumps would be felt even more at higher speeds.

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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-09-2005, 09:09 PM
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Fork oil

Three things to add. Make sure You don't mix up the spacers on the front they are not the same!! After I drain out the oil I put in about 300 to 400 cc
of Mineral Spirits and move the fork tube up and down to clean out the gunk the hang upside down to drain even over night then refill.Yes 10w is the stock weight but I thought the front end is to stiff so i went to 7 1/2w get it from BMW shop that is what they use and it seems to smooth out the front end. I weigh 185 and don't baby the way I ride and have had no problem with the front end hiting bottom.
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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-10-2005, 09:18 PM
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Did my forks a while ago. Measured what came out of each fork, right 392ml, left 415ml (supposed to have 489ml each). Poured the old oil into a jar and left it sit. About 1/8 inch of water in the bottom of the jar along with a lot of crud. Would recommend everyone get the fork oil changed.

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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-11-2005, 03:28 AM
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An expert = ex is a has been and a spurt is a drip under pressure.
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