Fork Oil Replacement Step by Step AN650 - Page 3 - Suzuki Burgman Forum
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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 01:21 PM
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Fork oil change.

I just remove the steering shroud and the front wheel. The drain plug on the bottom of the shock is then unscrewed and the top cap removed (with extreme prejudice). Drain. Replace the bottom plug and flush with mineral spirits. Work the two sides up and down (together) to loosen the crud . Drain and let dry overnight. Replace drain w/Blue Loktite while dry.
Refill w/482cc each of your favorite synthetic flavor and zip it up. While you're putzing around up there, check the steering head play.
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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 04:20 PM
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Re: Fork oil change.

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Originally Posted by geoffrey
The drain plug on the bottom of the shock is then unscrewed and the top cap removed (with extreme prejudice). Drain. Replace the bottom plug and flush with mineral spirits.
Now I feel really dumb. I never looked for a drain plug at the very bottom of the fork tube. It makes a lot more sense using that, than removing the tubes.

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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 06:07 PM
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The front forks on the 650 do not have any drain plug on the bottom. I assume you're talking about the "Cylinder bolt" which holds the damper cylinder inside the fork tube. This is not intended to be used as a drain plug. You'd need to be quite lucky to get this bolt out, drain the fork oil and get the bolt back in without the damper turning. I've taken many forks apart and usually the damper bolt turns so you either can't get it out or can't get it tightened back up.

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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 09:03 PM
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Re: Fork Oil Replacement Step by Step AN650

I'd like to add my two cents worth to this procedure. I placed a small block of wood on my floor jack and positioned the jack under the transmission area. From there I only jacked the bike enough to get the front wheel barely off the ground while on the center stand. Using a 10mm ratcheting box wrench, you can remove the two front fender bolts that are behind the forks. Next remove the two forward bolts using a hex key. The front fender will slide right out. From here you can easily remove the two calipers and the front wheel. After the fork work is complete the only thing to be careful about is to make sure the fender bolts are all correctly located on the shoulder areas of the bolts before you tighten them down completely. I feel this is a far safer method of removing the forks than to jack the whole bike up on blocks.

As for my results, both of my forks had the correct amount of fluid. The left fork fluid was red and smelled like transmission fluid. The right fork looked and smelled like yesterday's coffee! I replaced the stock fluid with 15w fork oil, and the ride difference is noticeable. I have over 14000 miles on my 05 650, and this is the first time I've opened up the forks. I guess I'll be checking them more often.

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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 10:08 PM
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Re: Fork Oil Replacement Step by Step AN650

I've got 2 pennies to throw in...

I feel as though the procedure described above is far too elaborate for the result. I felt no desire to disassemble the front end of my bike to swap out the oil. So, when I went to change out the OEM springs with Ikons, I used a Mighty-Vac to suction the oil out. Of course, this is not as thorough as the above procedure, but I plan to change out the fork oil every year or so. Therefore, the oil won't get dirty enough to warrant the standard procedure.

I measured the oil level before I removed any oil so that I could return the new oil to the same level. I am posting this solely as a reminder of alternative methods existing beyond the procedures in the service manual.

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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 10-30-2008, 04:48 PM
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Re:

Quote:
Originally Posted by corvairbob
well i put in 5wt fork oil and it did nothing for the ride today. looks like the heavier oil is the way to go just what wt did you install alwalk? it is not hard to replace. but i want a smoooooth ride and not one that just about throws you off the bike. like others on this site the burgy has way to hard a ride for a scooter. i miss the helix ride alot. thanks bob p
Yes, if you know how hydraulic shock absorbers work, then understand that a THICKER, more viscous oil is more difficult to pump or 'squeeze' between chambers because oil, like water is incompressible. The shock absorber works by taking a, well, force from one of the pistons and applying that force to squeeze or push oil thru a small orifice into a second chamber (this is a very down and dirty discussion). If the oil is thin, or less viscous, then that piston will be able to move much easier (and faster) when it pushes that incompressible oil into the next chamber. When you take a walk and walk thru air, as wel all do, we hardly NOTICE it's resistance or 'drag' on us. TRY to walk underwater and you are soon aware that water is more viscous than air, and now OIL is even thicker than water. And there are varying degrees of oil viscosity. If the oil is thin, then that force or 'shock' of the piston is simply transmitted faster and further than if it was trying to push a thicker fluid....that's about the bottom line. Very thin oil in a shock is no better than using water.

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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-03-2008, 08:41 PM
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Re: Fork Oil Replacement Step by Step AN650

I ran into an issue today while changing the oil in my fork tubes that I think you need to be aware of. While pumping the tube in and out to get all of the old oil out one of my tubes stuck in the down position and I had a devil of a time getting it to come back up. I even called the local dealership and talked to one of the machanics. He said this happens once in a while and you just have to keep twisting on the tube and pulling on it utill it comes free. I ended up clamping the slider in a vise, wrapping a towel around the tube, grabbing it with both hands and pulling as hard as I could for 5 or 6 minutes before it finally came loose. When it finally popped loose it slid up and down with ease. I think what happen was that because it had no oil in it a vacuum formed that kept it from comming back up.

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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 03:53 AM
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Re: Fork Oil Replacement Step by Step AN650

by Colchicine on 05 Aug 2008, 03:08

I've got 2 pennies to throw in...

I feel as though the procedure described above is far too elaborate for the result. I felt no desire to disassemble the front end of my bike to swap out the oil. So, when I went to change out the OEM springs with Ikons, I used a Mighty-Vac to suction the oil out. Of course, this is not as thorough as the above procedure, but I plan to change out the fork oil every year or so. Therefore, the oil won't get dirty enough to warrant the standard procedure.

I measured the oil level before I removed any oil so that I could return the new oil to the same level. I am posting this solely as a reminder of alternative methods existing beyond the procedures in the service manual.


--
did you manage to pump out the oil ok with a mighty vac ?

I have a small oil pump (bit like a cycle tyre pump but meant for oil),

would be interested in your success or otherwise of this method.

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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-03-2009, 08:21 AM
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Re: Fork Oil Replacement Step by Step AN650

Yes, I used a Mighty Vac. As long as it can move oil uphill, I think it would work!

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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-03-2009, 05:19 PM
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Re: Fork Oil Replacement Step by Step AN650

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colchicine
Yes, I used a Mighty Vac. As long as it can move oil uphill, I think it would work!
eXcellent

I must give this a a go.

Did you measure the quantity of oil you removed out of each tube ?

thanks
Robin...

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