Parasitic Battery Drain - Suzuki Burgman Forum
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Parasitic Battery Drain

Hi Burgman Owners. My wife just bought a used 2004 Burgman AN650K4 from my co-worker (Tom). The scooter was sold with a dead battery. This is the third battery in scooter's maintenance history.

Tom advises Burgman 650 scooter was purchased new in 2005. He had to replace the original battery in 2007 because it died one day at work (parked in the lot). This first replacement battery functioned for the rest of that riding season. Tom indicated he kept the battery on a small maintenance charger throughout the winter storage period.

In 2008 the first replacement battery died. The second replacement battery was installed. He rode the scooter for balance of year 2008 then stored it over the winter with the battery placed on a maintenance charger.

The second replacement battery died in 2009. Tom became frustrated to the extent that he quit riding the scooter and didn't bother to install another battery. He didn't even ride the bike in 2010.

Fast forward to present day, with second replacement battery still installed (battery was charged up to ~12.5 volts) and with bike on center-stand and with engine running at ~3000 RPM, battery voltage is >14 volts. This would indicate the alternator is functioning but it wouldn't
necessarily prove the voltage regulator is working correctly due to presence of not-full-charged battery.

A new, third replacement battery is now installed. It's an Interstate Cycletron II AGM battery. The battery was precharged using a Deltran Battery Tender Jr. The Battery Tender's LED function is: solid red indicates full amperage charge rate (0.75 amp), blinking red indicates battery nearly full charged and solid green LED indicates battery fully charged (float charge mode).

With the new AGM battery disconnected from bike, the Battery Tender will fully charge and LED indicates solid green. With battery installed in the scooter and Battery Tender Jr. connected overnight, the charger's LED indicates blinking red. This indicates battery nearly full charged...

A different Battery Tender Jr. shows the same blinking red LED with battery connected to scooter wiring harness. Battery Tender LED indicates solid green as soon as battery is disconnected from wiring harness. The scooter's keyswitch is not in the parking lamp position. Scooter rear parking lamps and underseat storage lamps are both extinguished.

I use the Battery Tender Jr. on several other bikes with installed batteries. The charger always switches to float charge mode (solid green LED).

I removed Battery Tender, disconnected battery negative lead and connected a milliamp meter in series between battery negative terminal and the disconnected battery negative lead. The ammeter indicates 1.2 mA. I presume this current indication is from load of the dashboard LCD clock and perhaps the CVT controller (ECM). I don't know why Tom went through so many batteries on this bike but I believe the alternator is functioning correctly. I don't know if the voltage rectifier/regulator is also functioning correctly however.

Is there a reason why the Battery Tender Jr. charger does not switch to float charge (solid green LED) mode? Do I have reason to believe there may be a problem in the voltage rectifier/regulator? Any and all advice is welcome.

PS My wife located an NHTSA recall for the 2004 AN650 Burgman. The recall describes an ignition switch failure potential caused by not having switch properly positioned on when operating the bike. A call to Suzuki confirmed her 2004 is not affected by the recall as her VIN is higher than the VIN range for affected 2004 bikes.
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:32 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Parasitic Battery Drain

Unplug the dash and observe the Ampere drop.
If you believe the CVT controller is an issue, try him too.
Pull out each fuse in succession while observing the draw.

Soon you'll find the culprit. Good luck
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Old 06-24-2011, 03:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Parasitic Battery Drain

does the 650 have a trunk light ?
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Parasitic Battery Drain

Yes, the 650 does have a trunk light. It operates with both a plunger type switch under the seat and a manual switch on the lamp itself.
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Parasitic Battery Drain

So is the trunk light turned off when the seat is closed - I think that's the purpose of the question.

So if you wish to troubleshoot this, take the following steps:

Disconnect the POS batter terminal. Connect a 12V test light between the red cable and the (+) battery terminal. If it now glows bright, you have a very heavy battery drain. One by one, pull the fuses (mark what goes where), both at the fuse panel and under the seat.

As was suggested you can disconnect the dash electronics first and see if that takes care of it. If it does, you have found your problem. Or at least the circuit that is causing the problem. If not, then, one by one, disconnect or disable circuits by pulling fuses. When the light goes totally out, you have found the circuit that is the source of the drain. Now such things as the dash clock, while being able to display and keep time, do so at a very VERY small drain - same principal as digital watch - the batter is very small but if the resistance is VERY VERY high, then it's a tiny current draw. Lights are usually not the culprit, unless left on (headlights, under dash, tail lights, brakes, etc).

It's just possible that the alternator just won't keep the battery charged, if you find that by boosting the battery with a charger keeps it going. What kind of charging voltage are you seeing?



I had a Honda Civic that had a battery draw via the (+) battery wire on the alternator. So much that it caught fire.
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: Parasitic Battery Drain

If the current leakage is actually only 1.2 mA, then the battery should support it for about 10,000 hours, assuming a battery capacity of 12 Ampere-Hrs. At 12 mA that decreases by a factor of 10.
As current drain approaches the capacity of the battery charger the battery will never achieve a fully charged state.

It may be possible that the meter is indicating incorrectly or you could possibly be reading it wrong. Not sure, but the leakage you note should NOT drain the battery quickly.

Any possibility that any other accessory circuits are connected? Are there more than one wire on the positive battery termnal? That would indicate another circuit.

Just dumping ideas.

Ray Nielsen, in Minneapolis and going for a long ride tomorrow!
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: Parasitic Battery Drain

I agree with Ray a 1.2mA draw will not kill a battery. As the last two batteries lasted 2 years each any major draw would have killed them quicker than that. I don't think there is any major problem.
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: Parasitic Battery Drain

An additional thought. If left uncharged, a lead-acid battery will sulphate. The lead sulphate crystals often prevent recovery no matter how long the battery is left on a smart charger.

Special chargers can sometimes partially reverse rhia, but they're fairly uncommon and usually use a pulse charging technique or even a technique called reflux charging where a pulse in the charging direction is followed by a shorter discharge pulse, repeated over time, to try to break down the lead sulphate crystals and drive them back into the electrolyte solution.

Inactivity is a betterie's main gremlin.

Ray Nielsen, in Minneapolis and ging for a long ride tomorrow!
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: Parasitic Battery Drain

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Scootist
The Battery Tender's LED function is: solid red indicates full amperage charge rate (0.75 amp), blinking red indicates battery nearly full charged and solid green LED indicates battery fully charged (float charge mode).

With the new AGM battery disconnected from bike, the Battery Tender will fully charge and LED indicates solid green. With battery installed in the scooter and Battery Tender Jr. connected overnight, the charger's LED indicates blinking red. This indicates battery nearly full charged...

A different Battery Tender Jr. shows the same blinking red LED with battery connected to scooter wiring harness. Battery Tender LED indicates solid green as soon as battery is disconnected from wiring harness. I use the Battery Tender Jr. on several other bikes with installed batteries. The charger always switches to float charge mode (solid green LED).

Is there a reason why the Battery Tender Jr. charger does not switch to float charge (solid green LED) mode? Do I have reason to believe there may be a problem in the voltage rectifier/regulator? Any and all advice is welcome.
On my Battery Tender the information on top of the transformer shows
Flashing Red-NOT CHARGING BATTERY
Solid Red-BATTERY CHARGING
Flashing Green- BATTERY GREATER THAN 80% CHARGED
Solid Green- MONITORING CHARGED BATTERY

It sounds like when you were charging overnight, the flashing red light meant it wasn't charging at all. I never tried connecting the BT to the wiring harness, but I would expect the same flashing red light because you arent charging anything.
I use Battery Tenders on my bike, tractor and sometimes the truck. They all switch to the solid green mode when charged.
No idea what could be causing the drain, but the suggestions from the others above all sound good to try.
Good Luck
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: Parasitic Battery Drain

Thanks for your advice. I went away for the weekend and my wife took the Burgman 650 out for a ride including a stop for gas and about 1/2 hour of ~30 mph traffic riding. She then stopped and shut off the bike to spend some time in a store. When she attempted engine re-start, it cranked slower and slower. Engine cranking slowed to a halt as she didn't get it started. All this is with a new battery.

She waited about 15 minutes for the battery to regain some power and got the engine started on the next attempt. She noted the dashboard clock had reset to 0001 hrs. She then rode the bike for another 1/2 hour and returned it to our garage.

I arrived this evening and did some investigating. The as-found battery voltage was ~12.6v. The engine started. I measured 14.5 volts at battery with the engine at fast idle. I took the bike out for a fast 15-minute ride. No problems observed.

Back at the garage, I accessed the battery, re-started engine and measured battery charging voltage. When the engine is revved, voltage will quickly increase to ~ 14.7 volts then settle back to a steady 14.5 volts.

The battery was removed from bike and and placed on a Deltran Battery Tender Plus. The BT red charging indicator lamp came on then after a few minutes the charger displayed alternating red and green LEDs; indicative of nearly full charged. That was ~1/2 hour ago. (please see add'l comment below)

Quote:
Originally Posted by QuantumRift
So is the trunk light turned off when the seat is closed - I think that's the purpose of the question.

Disconnect the POS batter terminal. Connect a 12V test light between the red cable and the (+) battery terminal. If it now glows bright, you have a very heavy battery drain. One by one, pull the fuses (mark what goes where), both at the fuse panel and under the seat.

It's just possible that the alternator just won't keep the battery charged, if you find that by boosting the battery with a charger keeps it going. What kind of charging voltage are you seeing?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Nielsen
Any possibility that any other accessory circuits are connected? Are there more than one wire on the positive battery termnal? That would indicate another circuit.


It appears the only wires connected to the battery positive terminal are from the stock wiring harness. There are no dealer-installed or owner-installed electrical accessories on this bike.

The Battery Tender now indicates solid greed LED after ~35 minutes of charging. The condition whereby Battery Tender is not able to display battery-full-charged (solid green LED) if battery installed in bike is suspected to be related to the low problem... Any thoughts on this?

I'm starting to suspect an intermittent problem in the voltage rectifier. Is it possible the former owner damaged diode(s) by charging the battery while installed in the bike? Have you come across any operating experience with a diode failing when hot; only to resume functioning normal when it cools down?
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