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Trailering

3K views 28 replies 10 participants last post by  djb383 
#1 ·
I am considering trailering my 2008 Burgman 400. Any ideas on tie down?
 
#3 ·
Cigarmessenger: Welcome to BUSA and congratulations on the new scooter.

As mentioned by djb383, if you plan on using Canyon Dancer ties on the grips, only use them for balance not to hold the scoot.

It was also mentioned somewhere to be very careful if you are going to use the "rachet" type tiedowns. You can easily over tighten and bend/break something.

Have fun and be safe
 
#4 ·
Hi!

As I mention in a previous post, do NOT cover your bike while its on the trailer when you are moving.

Why?

Dust will get under the cover and the wind will create you a 60mph grinder. The flapping WILL cause abrasion to painted surfaces, wear down the plastics bits, scratch up your chrome, etc.

So enjoy your trip. Just don't cover your bike with a great big grinding cloth (cover).

Stan Db
 
#5 ·
Greetings;

I have trailered both of my bikes quite bit. In fact, I think my trailer has about 22,000 miles hauling my bikes around the country. I use a 6' x 12' fully enclosed motorcycle trailer.

I have found that the burgy rides very well with the front wheel tucked into a wheel chock that is fasten securely to the floor.
I set the parkng brake and rest the bike on the SIDE stand (do not use the center stand). Then I run a racheting strap through the front wheel and fasten to a floor mounted 'D' hook that is positoned about 18" in front of the wheel chock . Rachet tighten to draw the wheel up securily into the chock.

Next I go to the back of the bike. Place a soft strap to the left passenger handrail, fasten a rachet strap down to a 'D' hook located in the left hand rear corner of the traler. Rachet so the strap has no slack, but not tight. Then I wrap another soft strap to the right hand passenger rail, hook a rachet strap to the soft tie and the 'D' hook positioned near the right hand rear corner of the trailer.

I manually pull the bike straight up by using the passenger back rest as a hand hold so the bike comes off the side stand. IN the meantime, I am pulling the surplus strap thorugh the right hand rachet. When I can not manually pull the bike over any more, I then finish standing the bike up with the rachet mechanism. I adjust both rachets down so the bike straight up. At this point the bike is pulled down and the rear suspension is slightly conpressed. The compressed suspension is good as it keeps the bike from bouncing and moving around.

Keep the side stand in the down position just in case one of the straps fails. A strap failed when hauling my 1600 Nomad. When I got to the destination, the bike was still standing on the side stand with the front wheel still secure in the front wheel chock. It rode as if it was parked in the driveway.

Finally, I loop the surplus strap around itself on each side for security. Then go back and adjust the front wheel rachet again. All straps are snug and secure. I have trailered the Burgy five separate trips all totalling about 6,000 miles and without incident. The bike never moved from it's orignal location.

The front wheel chock keeps the front wheel securily positon and will still support the bike even if one of the rear straps comes loose. Since the pivot point for any bike is at the front triple tree, securing the front wheel and the rear of the bike will keep the bike in a perfectly secure position. Securing only the front wheel and/or handle bars does not prevent the rear end from bouncing / pivoting around, putting undue stresses on the straps. Or worst, swinging around a scaping paint / breaking Tupperware.

The beauty of the method I use, is that it is secure for enclosed or open trailers alike. However, I still make it a habit to check the bike each time I fuel the truck up.

The advice of not using a bike cover while transporting the bike on an open trailer is good advice, unless you have a special cover specifically made for open trailer transporting. Frankly, I do not think one is made for a burgy yet.
 
#6 ·
If pictures might be of some help, go to the Gallery on this site,
find an album labeled lazyloop & look at the pictures marked
Catchall. There are pictures of my 400 on my trailer.
This is just the way I do it...these methods may or may not
work for you....hope that at least they give you some ideas
to work with.
My scooter/trailer setup has been from Texas to Eureka Springs
two years in a row, also to Florida/Port Charlotte/Ft. Myers
area last year, and my daughters place in Lafayette Indiana,
and numerous places in between, with no problems.
 
#7 ·
Bought my Burg in FL and trailered it to KY in January. Used a cycle strap that is called a Canyon Dancer that slipped over both hand grips and then I could rachet it down. 2 more straps at the top of the back shock and all went well. Open "golf cart" trailer with a channel running down the middle so the wheels wouldn't scoot out. Good Luck. Drive safe.
 
#8 ·
PackerDad said:
Used a cycle strap that is called a Canyon Dancer that slipped over both hand grips and then I could rachet it down.
But you have to be careful not to bend the handlebars using those. I thought they were more for "balance" than "securing".

Have fun and be safe
 
#10 ·
My trailer is finally built as I had a welder make a custom 4x8 landscape trailer for trailering my Burgman 650. I'll take a pic soon and post here. I bought the Harbormaster wheel chock but have yet to install as I'm thinking about mounting to a plywood panel so it can be removed when not in use as I suspect with leaving the trailer outside that it may rust. Also want the trailer to be more multi-purpose so it can be used for other things too as the wheel chock would obstruct valuable floor space. As for tie downs, I viewed the closeup pic of the red soft straps on the front fork. There appears to be one each on the forks, is that correct? What length straps are these and where did you buy them? Also they appear to have a closed loop at both ends as It looks like you slipped the belt through one loop around the upper fork and are pulling from the lower loop; is that correct? Last question; did you buy these straps (including Canyon Dancer) on line and if so, where? Thanks for all this most excellent information. :D

Dan

 
#11 ·
Hey Dan, looking forward to your trailer pics. With regard to the soft ties, yes, 2 of them, one on each side of the forks. They are about 18" long and the black ones come in a 2 pack at Walmart for $2. The fella that I bought the trailer from gave me the red soft ties. I use the black ones but took the pic with the red ones so they would show up better in the pic. Soft ties have loops at both ends so they can be used several different ways and yes I slip one end thru the other. Dan I don't have any Canyon Dancers. IMHO, they are fine for use on sport bikes that have clip-ons rather than handlebars. Clip-ons are much stronger than the Burgman handlebars so I just dont tie to the handlebars 'cause the forks are so much stronger and it works very well. Hope this helps and answered all your ?'s and don't forget to post trailer pics. Ride safe.

click
 
#12 ·
Thanks for all your help. Do you compress your front forks by leaning into them while seated or racket them down from the straps? I'm thinking about how we do my son's Honda CRF 150, as we lean into them and cinch them tight from the handlebars. Seems like if you had to compress forks by leaning into them with body weight while seated, it would take 2 people as one would have to cinch fork straps.

Dan
 
#13 ·
I don't sit on the scoot or use ratchet type tie downs. I prefer the cam buckle tie down straps.........less chance of over compressing the suspension and they work quick and easy. Ride safe.
 
#14 ·
djb383 said:
... snipped ... With regard to the soft ties, yes, 2 of them, one on each side of the forks. They are about 18" long and the black ones come in a 2 pack at Walmart for $2. Soft ties have loops at both ends so they can be used several different ways and yes I slip one end thru the other. Dan I don't have any Canyon Dancers. IMHO, they are fine for use on sport bikes that have clip-ons rather than handlebars. Clip-ons are much stronger than the Burgman handlebars so I just dont tie to the handlebars 'cause the forks are so much stronger and it works very well. Ride safe.

click
Dan, I transport one and sometimes two scooters at a time onthe same open trailer. We gutted and modified a small camper trailer and then installed tie down rings all the way around the outside and also adding 5 submerged "D" rings down the center of the platform floor. (16 rings in total all round). It also doubles as a double snowmobile trailer.

I'm cautious when it comes to trailering, towing, load capacities etc and my tie-down approach is similar. I use the Canyon Dancers to initially stabilize the scoot(s). Then I use the soft tie down extensions on the front forks and on the rear shocks and/or passenger grab rails (on my 400). I also use soft cloths in between the grab rails and tie down extensions to protect against scratching the paint. :shock:

So that adds up to 6 separate lines securing each scoot. I also have built "C" channel rails the tires will slide into for added side-to-side stability. Overkill ... probably. Rock solid ... you bet! :headbang:

Also, when we picked up our lastest scoot (Big Ruckus), the (HD) dealer shop tech insisted it was OK to use the sidestand when tying down the scoot and transporting it. :dontknow: I've never done this before, told him so and against my better judgement, I agreed ... letting him do the tying down.

That was last Monday and I'm now waiting for the replacement sidestand to arrive ... the original sidestand snapped off at the top just below the fastening bolt during the 550 mile ride home. I'll repair the gouges, left by the "drilling sidestand" in the trailer platform, when the good weather arrives. :crybaby:

Hope this helps. ~ suziblu ~
 
#16 ·
Dan Bowman said:
Thanks for all your help. Do you compress your front forks by leaning into them while seated or racket them down from the straps? Dan
I've done it both ways (physically leaning on the scoot and by rachet) ... although leaning on it is the better . Remember, you only need a little bit of compression to make everything really nice and snug. ~ suziblu ~
 
#17 ·
All this information is so helpful. Thanks all. :D Another question; what do you carry on your bike in the event your bike has to be towed to a shop while out on the road? We may be in a rural location or not have access to a towing facility that is savy and up to speed on motorcycle transport. Do you carry these straps with you on your bike (and which ones) in case the towing company does not have the proper straps to secure the bike? I suppose I answered my own question as I will be storing these towing straps on my scooter. Do you think that without a wheel chock that one may need the canyon dancers for stabilization and not necessarily for cinching down the front end if we're depending on other transport in the event of malfunction or accident on the road? I'm thinking of instances of touring when one may be far from home.

Dan
 
#18 ·
Wow Dan, some good ?'s and don't have answers 'cause i hadn't thought about it. I figure 99% of our travels will be the 2 of us, the wifey and I. We don't do long 'tours', just day rides but we do carry a tire plugger kit and mini-pump. If we had a mechanical failure, we would ride 2-up back to the trailer and go load up the dead scoot and probably head for home. Couple of light weights, we are. :lol:
 
#19 ·
I do not carry any straps, cam buckles or ratchets with me on my scoot ... but always have a bag full with me when we trailer one or more of our scooters. I just keep them all in one bag along with our bungee cords, tie down loops, nylon rope, small tire chocks (for the trailer when parked), tire puncture repair kit, and assorted vinyl covered chains and padlocks. That way I always know where to find all these items.

But as I think about it, I am going to put four of the closed looped tie down straps on each scoot and hope the tow truck/lift driver has at least some rope to tie things off with if need be.

You do not need the Canyon Dancer or front wheel chock to transport your scooter. Four secure lines (2 in front and 2 out back) will do the trick. The wheel chock and the handlebar "dancers" are simply for ease of getting things started and a little added security (2 extra lines) over and above the four main lines.

One thing I forgot to mention, since all our scoots have a "parking brake", I do engage it when transporting them on a trailer. Hope this helps. ~ suziblu ~
 
#20 ·
Here's my new motorcycle trailer that I had custom built. Since I may be trailering sometimes with our 4 cylinder 2007 Honda CRV, which has a towing limit of #1500 pounds, I had it built to a maximum weight of #400lbs. Trailer and Burgman 650 weight should be about #1000 pounds. Its a 4x8 welded trailer as I didn't want a bolt together type as Iost a Harbormaster some years ago that sheared off at the tongue. Again, to keep weight down, its made for only one bike. It's 1 1/2 angle iron top rail with hog wire mesh to hold in storables when used as a utility trailer. I had a solid galvanized sheet metal front installed to reduce stone and road debris damage to the bike. It has treated 2x6 flooring and a #1500 lb. axle with 12" tires/wheels. The ramp is a little taller at 54" for easy of access for loading the bike in the event I'm pushing a dead scooter. The rear lights are encased in round steel to protect from breakage. I also like the wheel around jack when moving a loaded trailer. I haven't installed the wheel chock yet and when I do, will make it removable so this trailer can be used for other purposes. Total cost was $650.

Dan

 
#21 ·
Dan, great looking trailer, bet you get a lot of use out of it. Today, I mounted the wheel chock in the center of our trailer and will need to make a slight adjustment to better accommodate the smaller Burgman wheel/tire. The swivel piece needs to be moved forward. I'll relocate it to where I've drawn the red circle. Should be perfect, will let you know.

clickclick
 
#24 ·
Dan, for this style chock to work best, the portion of the tire I've circled in green should NOT be touching the base plate, it should slightly elevated. Moving the swivel point further forward (inside the red circle) will compensate for the smaller diameter Burgman wheel/tire and elevate the wheel slightly above the base plate for a perfect fit. This style of locking wheel chock really works well for a one man operation and it's amazing how solid the scoot/bike is held. IMHO, rear tie downs are all that's necessary, just to keep the scoot from bouncing out of the chock if you hit a big bump...........but like they say, if 2's good, 4's better.

click to enlarge
 
#25 ·
Dan Bowman said:
Another question; what do you carry on your bike in the event your bike has to be towed to a shop while out on the road?
Dan, I usually carry two tiedown straps and two hogties with me just in case. I only carry two just to save space and because cinching down the front is more important than the rear. You don't really have to muscle the rear too tight. The rear straps are just to keep the rear end of the bike from sliding around. And I wouldn't use the passenger grab rails as the rear tie down points. There's too much potential for breakage. Instead, I'd use the rear tire if I couldn't find another secure place on the bike.

Of course, I feel more comfortable leaving the tiedowns at home when I'm on the Burgman. I'm more confident of its reliability than some other bikes I've had.
 
#26 ·
[quote="Dan Bowman] The ramp is a little taller at 54" for easy of access for loading the bike in the event I'm pushing a dead scooter.
[/quote]

The welded-wire on your ramp allows for a lot more air-flow
than the 'expanded-metal' that came on mine.
That's why I had a welder buddy cut my ramp in 2,
and add hinges, so it will fold in half. :wink:
 
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