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Clutch rebuild kit?

8K views 20 replies 6 participants last post by  Scooter_Maniac 
#1 ·
With something over 30K miles on my '08 650, I limped home on the final leg of a 2200 mile trip which included a number of mountain passes and other steep terrain. About half way through the trip, the clutch started slipping on starts and heavy acceleration and got progressively worse until I had to cancel the last two days' excursions planned over Canyon Lands NP, Arches NP and Colorado National Monument and, just high tail it back home. As it was, the thing was practically a Fred Flintstone scooter at the last three or four takeoffs from stop lights/signs. Will I need to order the clutch disks individually or, is there a rebuild kit that would include the normal wear items of disks and possibly springs, plus gasket?. If I'm looking at individual parts, would that likely include all the drive and driven plates (which seem to come in multiples to have all needed) plus, the individual inner clutch plate and outer clutch drive plate. Do any of the springs typically need replacing?
 
#2 · (Edited)
I haven't seen a kit just individual parts. You can look at LeDude's Google page on the rebuild. One question though. Does it slip in all ratios and speeds? Clutch failures aren't very common. I have bikes with 24K, 45K, and 56K all with the stock clutch. Partzilla seems to have the best pricing on most parts.

Reason I asked was I bought the '06 with 54K on it, felt like a clutch but only slipped on starts (worse in Power or Manual 1st) and did not slip at speed or in Manual 2nd and up.
http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/49744-considering-choices-cvt-fails-7.html#post495274 (Clutch inspection)
http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/49744-considering-choices-cvt-fails-10.html#post496736 (Actual cause)
 
#3 ·
One question though. Does it slip in all ratios and speeds? Clutch failures aren't very common.
First started just at takeoff under more extreme conditions, such as uphill grade. Eventually reaches speed, with expected RPM's at speed indicating to me, that it was going through the gears. Worsened gradually until takeoffs were very slow even on level ground and, at speed it would also slip if, for example attempting to quickly accelerate to pass. Revs would go up with very slow response. Checked the oil...I used and, typically have used, Valvoline 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil or, Valvoline 10W-40 4-Stroke ATV Oil. Both indicate identical specs and both say for hydraulic clutches. Motorcycle version says, "superior wet clutch protection for maximum power transfer" or some such, while the ATV version says, "wet clutch protection for smooth operation". Again, the specs on the bottle are identical.

In general, I don't consider myself too be particularly aggressive with the throttle/hard on the clutch however, I have done a fair amount of mountain riding. Perhaps that has led to the early demise.
 
#4 ·
I haven't seen a clutch kit. With the cost of parts I would disassemble it and see what it needs, buy the parts, and put it back together. I would be sure to change the engine oil & Filter, as it is likely contaminated by the deteriorating clutch. What kind of engine oil have you been running? And how often do you change it?
I run Mobil One Full Synthetic 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil, and I change it and the filter every 5,000 miles.
Cheers!
 
#5 ·
What kind of engine oil have you been running? And how often do you change it?
Valvoline 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil or, Valvoline 10W-40 4-Stroke ATV Oil. Both indicate identical, required specs on the bottles (nothing more or less) and both say for hydraulic clutches. Change at 3600 miles with filter at 7200.
 
#7 ·
diagnosing a gearing issue on the 650 can be a daunting task at times.

When I had mine, I started by replacing the PPS, which didn't solve the problem.

then rebuilt the clutch, scoot would rev high on stand still starts and I would have to open and close the throttle to
gain momentum, it would then be ok at speed.

I rebuilt the clutch which you can check on my Burgman Center. That lasted a short while until I lost all traction on day.

The belt had broken. After opening the CVT it became clear that on my 04 the primary pulley bearing had worn out and
in turn it had destroyed the primary pulley shaft which led to the destruction of the belt.

taking the clutch out is pretty simple and can be done rather quickly.

take it apart, examine all the plates and the other components. I would replace the plates if they show any signs of wear and tear.

good luck.
 
#8 ·
Never heard of a clutch going out that early unless the wrong oil was used . I would guess it's the CVT heading for CVT heaven and not the clutch .

TheReaper!
 
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#9 ·
:eek
 
#12 · (Edited)
11K miles is too long for any oil filter IMHO, I don't care what they say. The oil and it's cleanliness is the LIFE BLOOD of your engine and CLUTCH. I think the cleaner the better. Is it clean enough? I dunno, change the filter with the oil to be sure! If you don't change the filter, your leaving some dirty oil in the engine.
I'm only bringing up the oil issue because it is only one factor of the possibilities for Clutch Slippage. Since you only have 30 something thousand miles on your 650, there has to be something that has brought about the severe slippage that you are experiencing.
I would listen to the voices of experience on here and proceed with their advice. The Clutch is obviously a lot easier to check than the CVT, so taking a look at it first seems to make sense. You can disassemble the clutch, check all parts for wear and for being in spec, measure the thickness of the places to be sure they are in specs, check the hub and housing for any step wear to be sure edges of plates do not hang up and that they can move freely under load. The 4 springs only serve to retract the backing plate and should not need replacing. As long as the backing plate and roller weights don't hang up on anything, they should work OK.
So if everything looks good in the clutch, then that pretty much leaves only one other place to look, and The Reaper has already said where that is.
So Good Luck with it.
 
#13 ·
Funny never noticed that in the manual. I change my filter every other oil change and I take it off to drain the oil out of it in between replacement. I used dino oil and change it every 2,600-3,000 miles.
 
#14 ·
There is a clutch kit that you can buy.........SORT OF ! And I've sold a lot of them .

When I was parting these 650 burgs out , I actually pulled the sellable parts out of the engines like the stators , starters , clutch packs and then scraped the rest of the engines because no one bought them . Keep in mind that these were all low mileage bikes , not one had more that 10,000 miles on it . The clutch packs all sold rather quickly , I usually sold them for $150.00 plus shipping which was a pretty good deal . So bottom line , if you can find one out of a low mile bike it's an easy fix . All you need is a new gasket and an hour or so of your time , and if that was indeed your problem your back on the road .

TheReaper!
 
#16 ·
And if I lived closer to you, I'd pay you the scrap value for the engines, wiring harness and other stuff. :laugh
 
#15 ·
Using Rotella T6 5W40 oil and the $5 Emgo filters from Partszilla, I run my bike to about 7200 miles on an oil change interval. I replace the filter at that time.
How I do my reminders are to reset the oil change reminder at the change, ride till it come on once, reset it and again ride till it comes on the second time.

When I was commuting, I had to do about 2.5 oil changes per year.

Though I use JASO-MA oils most times, I have used 5W40 and 10W40 CAR oils in my bikes if it did not have the "Star Burst" on the back label. No clutch issues on the 4 Burgman 650 I have had. But on my 1978 Suzuki GS750N, I did try some ARCO Graphite oil and BIG MISTAKE! The wet clutch lasted about 200 miles. I had to replace all the clutch parts, double flush the engine with Kerosene mixed 50% with 10W40 oil and new filters.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Off topic but waiting for the OP to report back so...

I'd pay Reaper for a very low mileage wiring harness from a 2005 up 650 even if it was cut in sections if all the parts were still there. Even better if the Speedo head, ECM and major relay's and sensors (TOS) came with it too. 2008 and up would need the throttle bodies too. If I had two wiring "Packages" from 2005 and up, I'd convert my 2003's to 6th OD's, outside Air temp and MPG metered features.

In my opinion, the "Best of all Worlds" would be a low mileage 2002-2004 Burgman 650 engine module, a Polish Adapter, a 2011 and up CVT with the 4 keys with the longer stopper bolt, a MJR updated timing Chain tensioner and a complete 2005 - up Exec body, frame and wiring harness.
 
#19 ·
I don't know if it makes a difference , but I always leave the clutches in a small bucket of fresh clean motorcycle oil . Then when some one buys it I drain it overnight wrap it in several layers of plastic bags and ship it .

TheReaper!
 
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#20 ·
I like Extra Virgin Olive oil. :devil
 
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