400 cranks but no start - Page 2 - Suzuki Burgman Forum
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

Pulled apart the starter. Nothing looked out of the ordinary; normal wear on the commutator with some discoloration. Cleaned it up and the copper looked fine. Brushes looked fine too, all four of them. No shorts from the armature shaft to the commutator or the commutator to the armature itself, and full continuity between all windings of the commutator to itself. Put the starter back together (that sucked; 4 brushes with no holes to hold them in) and tested off a car battery with jumper cables and the motor does spin, decently rapidly.

I will say however, that when touching the negative lead back to the battery, it made quite the spark, enough to crater in my battery post and the jumper cables. So although everything is checking out with the starter and it does indeed function, it seems that it is pulling a LOT of amps to run. Don't really get it; unless the armature is touching the magnets, thereby shorting to the case when turning.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 10:48 AM
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I'm not so sure it's the starter at this point. Maybe try this- run cables directly from the external car battery to the starter motor while the rest of the bike is connected to the normal battery. That way the starter won't draw down the battery. If the starter is just plain bad, drawing too much current, then it should fire right up. If not, then check the injector for operation (it should click every compression cycle) and spark. Make sure the spark happens near TDC (timing light). I doubt it's valve timing- just a couple of notches skipped on the chain and the piston goes crunchity-crunch. You might have a bad ECU, too, but since it's kind of expensive, you want to eliminate everything else first ;>)

Last edited by Squeazel; 11-22-2016 at 11:10 AM. Reason: Starter is permanent magnet field, so no field windings, so they can't be shorted...
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Verified nothing is shorted again today in the starter. Closed circuit to the case from the post with increasing resistance as the shaft turns, so all seems well there. Injector I have never gotten to actually squirt fuel from the scoot itself; either off the internal battery or jumped to a car battery. While cranking before I also placed my stethoscope on the injector and never heard a click, nor when I cranked it out of the intake manifold. I can only get it to click off an external battery; never off ECU control.

Probably won't poke at it again until this weekend as I'm prepping for the holiday and reeeeeaaaallly don't want to have to mess with a broken scoot and a broken family.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 10:09 AM
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OK, Have a happy Thanksgiving!
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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OK, Have a happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks; you as well! Happy turkey day! Much beer, bourbon, and bellies.

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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Tried cranking the engine with the newly examined starter reinstalled with just the starter being powered by an external car battery. The engine cranks just as slowly as before; leading me to believe that although everything I've checked on the starter, it's drawing too much current for whatever reason. The engine turns easily with a socket wrench and so the engine isn't seized; but, I think the engine actually turns too easily. May be a result of the decomp cam, but it turns extremely easily, leading me to believe it has very low compression.

The starter likely isn't turning the engine fast enough, but it should still fire over with my starting fluid and spark if it has enough compression. The fuel injector still will not fire under ECU control. At this point, I'm not out anything as I haven't bought it from my friend yet. But without progressing any farther, the scoot already needs both tires replaced, both wheel bearings, brakes, CVT belt and needle bearing at a minimum. Even if it was running, this has made it more economic and laborious trouble than I'm able to dedicate at this time.

Likely, it will simply be parted out now. So if anyone's interested, it's basically a complete scoot and most everything on it is functional. Sensors, seat, switches/controls/levers, cluster, body panels, etc. Thanks to everyone who replied; I'll keep you all posted!

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 07:50 PM
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OK Burgmanlocal, where are you local to? I am looking for a cheap toy.

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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 08:15 PM
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Brand new starter for $57.99 with free shipping
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?...an+400+starter

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Brand new starter for $57.99 with free shipping
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?...an+400+starter
Thing is, it's not just the starter, and I'm not entirely convinced the starter has any problem. Everything checks out as far as you can test for I suppose, but it still cranks slow.

Regardless, it has a myriad of other problems that make it a more suitable parts scoot than getting it up to a point where I would consider it safe transportation between my hindquarters and the pavement.

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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OK Burgmanlocal, where are you local to? I am looking for a cheap toy.
Complete opposite side of the country mate.

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