The Rectifier is up under the left rear side panel. It s in the air stream of the rear tire. But the plug connector is up farther towards the engine.
You can not fix these by just throwing parts at them. It could be the Battery or Stator or Recitfier or a wiring issue. There are tests that will need to be done but you will need to have a charged battery and start the engine to do them. How old is the battery and if charged up what is its voltage.
Please let us know if you have a volt-ohm meter and or a test light probe. With a test probe you can test each fuse and connectors for voltage. The main fuse that fails and kills these is the "Signal" fuse.
Have you added any electrical items lately?
You will need to have the battery charged up for these next tests. With a Volt-ohm meter, what is the battery's voltage at:
Dead stop?
Cranking?
Running at idle?
Running at 3500 RPM?
These are some questions we need answers to in order to help you.
Thanks, the bat is brand new and charged, showing 13 -14v Can not start engine,however. I thought the rectf. might be a 2nd place to chk out. This bike has a new CVT and a short block rebuilt engine at 32000 m, now with 45000 on it this short shows up sitting the winter out in a garage w/ bat tender always on.With the extra $8,500 I put into this 2004 machine I would like to get some more fun out of it. Ride On!
OK, Well First things First. The RECTIFIER has nothing to do with the bike not cranking/Starting.
You said "the bat is brand new and charged, showing 13 -14v" BUT what is the ACTUAL VOLTAGE taken with a Volt Ohm Meter. We are looking for a number like 12.5 volts, or 12.7 volts, or 12.9 volts. 13 -14v is not a realistic number. We are talking about it being fully charged and off the charger. Turn the key on (Headlight on) for 15 seconds to burn off the surface charge, then turn off the key and measure the battery voltage directly across the battery terminals. I unhook the seat strut and tie the seat straight up with a bungee cord to give more room when working on the battery.
NEXT, when you say "Can not start engine" What exactly does that mean? Does that mean that the engine does not crank/turn/move at all? Does the starter make any sound? Are there any sounds at all? Any clicking, grinding, anything? If that is the condition, that the problem is in the starter circuit, and you need to check at the Starter Relay, which is right over the battery (it is on my 06').
NEXT, If the engine does turn but not start, is the starter turning at a normal sounding speed, or does it sound slow or sluggish? If that is the case, it sounds like a weak battery. Be sure that the Battery is FULLY CHARGED before proceeding. In this case you will need to leave the voltmeter attached to the battery terminals, and watch the battery voltage as you crank the engine. Check the battery connections and wiring connections to be sure that they are TIGHT! The voltage should not drop below 10 volts, 9.5 volts at the absolute lowest. If the voltage drops too low, then the battery is weak. You will need to retest the battery to be sure that is it capable of putting out it's rated current. A Proper LOAD TEST would be in order to verify if the battery is good or bad.
Let us know what you find out and we will guide you further.
Good Luck with it.
OK, Well First things First. The RECTIFIER has nothing to do with the bike not cranking/Starting.
You said "the bat is brand new and charged, showing 13 -14v" BUT what is the ACTUAL VOLTAGE taken with a Volt Ohm Meter. We are looking for a number like 12.5 volts, or 12.7 volts, or 12.9 volts. 13 -14v is not a realistic number. We are talking about it being fully charged and off the charger. Turn the key on (Headlight on) for 15 seconds to burn off the surface charge, then turn off the key and measure the battery voltage directly across the battery terminals. I unhook the seat strut and tie the seat straight up with a bungee cord to give more room when working on the battery.
NEXT, when you say "Can not start engine" What exactly does that mean? Does that mean that the engine does not crank/turn/move at all? Does the starter make any sound? Are there any sounds at all? Any clicking, grinding, anything? If that is the condition, that the problem is in the starter circuit, and you need to check at the Starter Relay, which is right over the battery (it is on my 06').
NEXT, If the engine does turn but not start, is the starter turning at a normal sounding speed, or does it sound slow or sluggish? If that is the case, it sounds like a weak battery. Be sure that the Battery is FULLY CHARGED before proceeding. In this case you will need to leave the voltmeter attached to the battery terminals, and watch the battery voltage as you crank the engine. Check the battery connections and wiring connections to be sure that they are TIGHT! The voltage should not drop below 10 volts, 9.5 volts at the absolute lowest. If the voltage drops too low, then the battery is weak. You will need to retest the battery to be sure that is it capable of putting out it's rated current. A Proper LOAD TEST would be in order to verify if the battery is good or bad.
Let us know what you find out and we will guide you further.
Good Luck with it.
Too many members have had charging system issues. This is always hitting you at the worst time and can kill a whole riding season. Years ago I found this posting that may help. It also recommends a newer style regulator/rectifier if yours is bad. There are a few suppliers of better than a...
Interesting stuff. My An650 has a new gel battery only showing 9.5v , if I add jump leads to a car battery everything works fine, if I then disconnected the jump leads, it stops. I stripped the whole front looking for rectifier.... its not there as a you tube vid slowed. Bike stopped when I was out riding. Engine jumped a few times, tgen zero on tge jey
You don't say what year your 650 is.
This is the rectifier position on the earlier versions. (Click to enlarge).
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