LED Headlights *New - Page 3 - Suzuki Burgman Forum
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post #21 of 189 (permalink) Old 11-19-2015, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by westnash View Post
I don't know why you need them unless you ride a great deal at night on 2 lanes. The stock 650 lights are ok on low and bright on high.

Where I find them most useful, other than the fact cars can see me better, is that I can see into corners better than the stock lights. I do a lot of riding in the dark in the fall/winter, because I commute before sunrise and after sunset, and noticed with the stock lights I didn't get the illumination into the corner on the curved highway on-ramps, etc. I would have liked. I didn't like going 45 on a curved on ramp and not being able to see "reaction time" distance ahead.


I personally also like the whiter light versus the yellow light, but that was by no means the reason I bought them.
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post #22 of 189 (permalink) Old 11-19-2015, 12:15 PM
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This looks like what I've been looking for. My low beam lighting is poor, at best. They just don't light up enough of the road. The high beams are good, but I can't run them all the time without getting flashed. Thanks for posting and the pictures sure help.

06-650 Exec
06-Majesty 400
93-Goldwing
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post #23 of 189 (permalink) Old 11-19-2015, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by minimac View Post
This looks like what I've been looking for. My low beam lighting is poor, at best. They just don't light up enough of the road. The high beams are good, but I can't run them all the time without getting flashed. Thanks for posting and the pictures sure help.
These will help light up the road. As to other comments about the diff, its huge. The stock lights are decent and was one reason I liked the Burgman, but I knew I could do better


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post #24 of 189 (permalink) Old 11-19-2015, 02:08 PM
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Good job, Sir.

While I haven't done anything with my Burgmans (for the amount of night riding, and where I do it, the stock bulbs are adequate for me), I have converted my two ST1100's to LED's with very similar results to yourself.
I used Kensun H4 units from Amazon, which are Cree lights, and were $100 for the pair.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T8HPJNY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T8HPJNY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

I've also converted the turn signals to LED, and went the Switchback route to have white DRL's (had to switch to clear lenses, like the 650's have), going to Amber when indication is initiated.
The white lights are really good, but had to fit the ballast resistors to stop hyper-flash on the indicators, so the amber are much less bright.
Not certain on compatability with the Burgman, but the ST's used 1157 bulbs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131052541137...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Looking forward with interest to see how you get on with yours.
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The rest are cages.
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post #25 of 189 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 12:52 AM
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Just wanted to comment that I picked up these based on your experience. I have gone through three sets of ballasts for HIDs in the 3 years I have had them. Not to mention many orders and returns of HIDs that claimed to be H4 equivalent but were not. So I new already key items needed: end cap on bulb to prevent light going directly out, two different light source points for regular versus high beam, not too large a back-end so as to interfere with the fork, etc. Was a little concerned still though because I do a lot of all-weather riding (read, rain) and I did not see you put the rubber hoods back on. But thought to give it a try.

(a) the bulbs are the exact replacement size with the high and low beam sources at the exact right spot for the designed reflector.
(b) the bulb comes out of the 3-prong socket holder. So it is super easy to insert and clip the socket holder, put the rubber boot back on, then insert and lock in the bulb. I had this feature on my HID's and it is really a requirement and nicety for use on the Burgman's with the rubber weather boots. (note: I had absolutely no problem clipping the sockets in. Can see if you did not take the bulb apart that it would be difficult to get the clip around the fan / heat sink)
(c) The beam height and spread is identical to the normal H4 bulb on both the right and left. The high beam doubles the intensity (turns on another pair of LEDs) but does not make as large a difference as with the incadescent H4's going from low to high (which also doubles the intensity and output using the same technique except with filaments).
(d) The beam is so much brighter and brilliant white that it makes a huge difference at night and during the day. Only issue I can see is if in heavy fog or snow. Well, at least the latter you should not be riding two wheels
(e) the little fans on the back of the bulbs do come on. But you would only notice this little whir before you start the bike. Once started, no chance. The radiator fan and engine noise drown any minute noise out. A concern is that if they need a fan and heat sink, and that heat sink is in contact with the rubber boot, will there be a melting rubber issue. Will see after a few months.

It was a simple install. Once I removed my old HID's and wiring, it was as easy as putting in a new incandescent H4 bulb and closing it back up. I only removed the top panel (and handle bar) tupperware when replacing bulbs.

So now I want to see what the reliability will be like in all road conditions and with time. My HID ballasts would go out within 6-9 mths. I tried 4 different brands and no luck with any. There is only one, true H4 replacement HID bulb (has a magnetic shield that moves to give you high beam). But just never found ballasts that worked in the Burgman 650 that lasted. The LED's have a small electronics module. But the connection and build seems weather tight and solid. Better than some of the thin HID ballasts I was getting.

Thanks for the heads up SpunN16.

(As for my order, I ordered off Amazon from Opt7 Lighting (manufacturer) that was fulfilled by Amazon. It took 5 days before I got a tracking number and told it was shipped. But then the std shipping I selected, which was supposed to take 7 more days, arrived the next morning via USPS delivery in my normal mail. Ordered 29 Dec and they arrived 6 Jan. And there was a holiday in between!)

Grub

On 2nd Burg: 2007 650 Exec
Clearview XL/Tint/Vent shield, Utopia Back, Airhawk, PhotonBlaster, OzniumTurnSig, FlexLED Red CHMSL, ThrottleMeister, SpeadoHealer, Stebel horn, TireGuard Mon, Grip Puppies, Sena SMH10, Opt7 LED head, LED tail, Gorilla 8017, NelsonRigg Saddle, CorTech Top, Givi S850 GPS bag, ...
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post #26 of 189 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 07:51 AM
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OK SurplusGadgets ... now you've made me a bit nervous that I messed up my installation.


I installed the Opt7 LED lights specified in SpunN16's first note in this thread. I did not know the bulb could be taken out of the socket holder. It sounds like, from your description, you took the lens covers off so you could insert the bulb back into the socket holder from the front after you clipped the holder in. Is that correct, or am I missing something in technique?


But my larger concern ... I intentionally did not reinstall the boots like you apparently did. Other than the fact they didn't seem like they would fit over the heat sink, (and SpunN16's pictures seemed to indicate to me he didn't install the boots either) I assumed since they had built in fans and a heat sink, for cooling purposes, they needed to be open to the air. Guess I need to be educated.
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post #27 of 189 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 09:58 AM
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Further details on keeping rubber boot

DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE YOUR LENS COVER. I tried that 4 years ago to follow MicBurg's idea of installing Projector HID's. Only to find after doing all the oven heating, etc that they changed the Projector so it no longer fit in the Burgman housing! As mentioned, these are almost as easy to install as changing a normal H4 bulb (albeit you have to zip-tie the small electronics module out of the way).

The rubber boot prevents water from seeping in around the headlamp into the reflector / lens housing. Just like on car headlights, it is a hassle when water gets in. The lights fog and drip internally, you start getting stains you cannot clean, etc. The rubber boot is important.

Road spray is not the biggest source of water around the back of the headlight bulbs. With the fender and splash guard, things stay reasonably dry. It is the water from the vents on top. Either while waiting at a light in a heavier rain, when washing the bike, or when parked outside during the rain. I garage the bike but do ride in the rain. So keep the rubber boot.

Will try to post photos when I get a chance to take the top cover off the bike again. Until then ...

NOTE: wear gloves. The metal ring with tabs and the ribbed vent housing around the rear fan are sharp and will cut your fingers when trying to apply the pressure required here.

Like better HID H4 replacements, the Opt-7 LED bulb has a white plastic outer cylinder slotted sleeve with a metal flange ring /w tabs. This is a cover over the center pillar with a similar white plastic cylinder tabbed housing. There is a silicon O ring to keep the two tight and water tight. It is this, not the boot, that makes it difficult to twist the two apart and back together. Do not remove the O ring; it is as important as the boot.

Look at the H4-replacement unit from the filament (LED) side. You can see how the two have been "locked". Twist to unlock and slide the bulb tabbed cylinder out of the slotted sleeve. Install the holder into your bike's reflector and close the spring clip. Install the rubber boot (tab down) and make sure to slide the center part of the boot over the white sleeve fully. The white sleeve should be flush with the boot and visible. You now have a reasonably sealed, weather proof headlight housing.

Now take the "bulb" and slide it in its white slotted sleeve housing. Should go easily once the tabs are aligned with the slots. Push forward with pressure then twist back into a locked position. You can see the bulb from the front to know when forward enough. It is tough to push all the way forward and twist due to the O ring which will create the final seal. The boot may create a little back pressure if not pushed all the way down on the collar / sleeve.

Do not use tools. A gloved hand is best. It would be easy to break or bend the tabs and fan cage / housing. If you want, put the whole bulb assembly in place without the clip and twist apart that way. The bike reflector will hold the tabs so you can twist holding the fan vent cage. I did not break or bend mine; but know others like my brother Clack would simply try to brute force it.

There are absolutely no instructions about this with the bulbs. Because most cars have other methods than the boot to seal the reflector / lens unit. But my HID's were built this way so I knew. (apologies for DYAC of "new" in original post I cannot correct.) Better designed, after market bulbs are designed like this so they can simply use different sleeves and tabs for different bulb styles. But it really helps in our booted Burgmans.

The O ring and other parts of the design tell me this still needs to be sealed to prevent water getting into the lens / reflector housing. The fan is cooling the metal coming out the back. I believe it uses thermal conduction through the metal housing to get the heat to the back, There is no pathway for air from the fan / back to the LED's in the front. The bulbs are inserted from behind into the sleeve just like the original H4 bulbs are inserted from behind. It should be a simple job to install, even to continue using the boot.

Hope that helps. Will try to get photos later if someone does not beat me too it.

Grub

On 2nd Burg: 2007 650 Exec
Clearview XL/Tint/Vent shield, Utopia Back, Airhawk, PhotonBlaster, OzniumTurnSig, FlexLED Red CHMSL, ThrottleMeister, SpeadoHealer, Stebel horn, TireGuard Mon, Grip Puppies, Sena SMH10, Opt7 LED head, LED tail, Gorilla 8017, NelsonRigg Saddle, CorTech Top, Givi S850 GPS bag, ...

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post #28 of 189 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 11:45 AM
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Helps a lot ... bear with me a moment as I don't have access to the bulbs at the moment. But what it sounds like you are saying is the bulb / fan / heat sink are all part of the bulb assembly that you can twist and remove from bulb "holder." Is that a correct interpretation? I never thought to look to see if the "unit" could be taken apart. I just tried to install as a unit (why it was so difficult on the right side) and could not see any way I could fit the boot over it.


I share your concern about whether the heat sink/fan will be able to adequately do it's job if covered by the boot. Besides the practical issue discussed above, I did not try real hard to figure a way to install the boot because I figured with the fan / heat sink, it needed to be exposed to the open air to be effective. Although I agree it's conduction that cools the LEDs (e.g. no air flow), the fan generates airflow to cool the heat sink, that allows the heat sink to continue to conduct heat from the LEDs. I might look to see if there is another way to provide the protection of the boot, without using the boot (if that makes sense).

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post #29 of 189 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 01:36 PM
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Will the electrical circuit hold the new LED bulbs?.
Will they work on a 2013 model ?.
Just afraid to overcharge system or if wires are not made to handle the new bulbs.
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post #30 of 189 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 02:14 PM
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I'm not an electrician or electrical engineer, but the bulbs are 40W each on high beam (I think 35W on low), well within the ability of the circuit to handle. I have a 2012 Executive, so I'm not familiar with the requirements of the 2013, but if it still uses an H4 bulb, which I assume it does, then yes they would work. You should be able to check that out in your owner's manual.
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